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View Full Version : Sega CD 2 problem HELP!



Blades
12-16-2006, 08:20 PM
CD

evildragon
12-16-2006, 09:54 PM
the magnets on the top cup piece could be missing.. it gets held by both gravity, and magnets to the spindle.

evildragon
12-16-2006, 10:01 PM
Thanks for replying,

I took it apart, it appears to have everything there, There's a big magnet looking thing on it so i guess thats it, its inside. Any ideas how to fix? I REALLY want this system to work. It's a noise as if you were to press the lid on a portable dvd player with a thin lid.

Blades
yea. it sounds like it's not grabbing tight enough... sadly, those cups, as i call them, don't easily come off.. there's clips holding them on, multiple ones.. when you close the lid slowly, you might hear the magnets grab (with no CD), if it does, that's good.. if you can't hear it, don't worry, sometimes it's silent, but it could also mean it's not grabbing right.. make sure the spindle is high enough too.. i've seen some spindles actually go down more on the rod...

evildragon
12-16-2006, 10:24 PM
you got it off? i didn't think it would be so simple, unless you broke a clip..

the CDs are a type of plastic, yes, but the spindle, and the cup on the top that holds down the CD, are magnetic, they both pull each other together, to help hold the CD down..

When you put the cup on the spindle, does it stick to it like a magnet would?

evildragon
12-16-2006, 10:38 PM
no problem.. being a fellow owner of two Sega CDs (one that works, and another with a dead 315 chip), i know it feels to be the one with a dead unit ;)

evildragon
12-17-2006, 01:15 AM
sounds like the track needs to be cleaned, and check the grease on the gears...

evildragon
12-17-2006, 01:59 AM
im talking about the laser.. the laser sits on a rail, which it moves back and forth on, and it's moved by gears.. check those gears, and the rail.. make sure it's not getting caught on anything (this means you need to take apart the system)..

(i don't use IM anymore)

evildragon
12-17-2006, 02:13 AM
remember this: make sure the CD lid is open when you close it...

just examine the gears, make sure they aren't dirty.. make sure the rail is clean, that's all.. don't touch the circuits..

Joe Redifer
12-17-2006, 02:20 AM
remember this: make sure the CD lid is open when you close it...
Yes... whatever you do DON'T TRY TO CLOSE THE LID IF IT IS ALREADY CLOSED!!! :)

evildragon
12-18-2006, 07:11 PM
glad it worked out.. funny too, cause both possibilities i suggested, were the fault.. XD

evildragon
12-20-2006, 04:51 PM
i can tell which model 2 that is, just by seeing it's laser assembly..

that's Model 2, R2... The cheaply made one...

megadriveworld
12-20-2006, 04:53 PM
WATCH OUT for the super dangerous invisible laser radiation :P

evildragon
12-20-2006, 04:58 PM
Yeah I noticed, strange as it was built in 93
Oh well it works and im happy

Blades
well, you can tell easily which version you got...

Model 2, R1: Motherboard has the CD access LED. Laser assembly has a bunch of wires coming off of it, going to the motherboard.. Booting time is slightly slower than R2, but is much more reliable..

Mode 2, R2: Motherboard has the CD access LED on a snap-off board, and attached by wires. Laser assembly is connected by a single ribbon. Booting time is slightly faster than R1 (in the region detecting area). This unit is a tad more prone to crashes due to the laser assembly.

BIOS:
Mode 2, R1: Version 2.00 (9303)
Mode 2, R2: Version 2.11, but mistakingly ID'ed as 2.00 on boot screen. (9306) Dumping the exact BIOS will show it's 2.11, with an accidentally misprogrammed boot screen just saying it's 2.00...

evildragon
12-20-2006, 05:36 PM
if you have no more problems with it, then you'll be perfectly fine..

there's one major bug with the R1 unit though.. if a game crashes, there's a possibility of corrupted save-RAM..

evildragon
12-20-2006, 05:37 PM
Yes... whatever you do DON'T TRY TO CLOSE THE LID IF IT IS ALREADY CLOSED!!! :)
you mis-read that, so badly too XD

what I meant was, when your closing the shell to the Sega CD, make sure the CD door lid is open, otherwise, when closing it, you may damage the lid switch...

jumbo11
06-25-2007, 11:59 PM
i seem to be having a similar problem. model 2 as well.

my spindle was a little too low as well and it the laser would make a lot of grinding noises.

i lifted the spindle slightly with my finger and tested a music cd and it works good now.

it takes 1-2 sec to go to next song a little longer to skip over a lot of songs. 3 sec to load the cd at startup.

should i still open it up?

evildragon
06-26-2007, 12:12 AM
that's absolutely normal.. Don't forget, it's a single speed drive (1x), so it's seek time is quite slow...

though, if you feel it's taking a little long, just clean the lens...

jumbo11
06-26-2007, 12:17 AM
yea i did clean the lens before and im playing a cd on this sucker right now and it's working very nicely.

no grinding now, just normal clicking.

thx

jumbo11
06-26-2007, 08:18 PM
evildragon, could you tell me what to grease the laser metal rail with?

i opened my system up to check it out and everything is in tact but I removed some of the gunk from the rail.

i have some silicon spray. can i put a little bit of that on a q-tip and spread along the rail?

thx man

evildragon
06-26-2007, 08:29 PM
you're supposed to LEAVE the "gunk" on the rail.. it's lubricant...

you want something that's like oil for a car, it prevents the friction from damaging the parts...