How do you fix the reset button on a model 2 Genesis

[xXxTWO FACExXx]

I picked up a model 2 Genesis a couple months back for free off my friend it worked great the only problem? The reset button doesn't work this wouldn't be a problem but i'm selling to my friend and he wants to have the first X-MEN on the Genesis you know that game that you need the reset button in order to pass the level. Anyone have suggestions?

[ooXxXoo]

There are a few different ways to substitute the reset button...But you'll probably find easy to install a tact switch for the fix...:

BEFORE:

http://usera.imagecave.com/capcom2000/hpim8528.jpg

And AFTER:

http://usera.imagecave.com/capcom2000/hpim8542.jpg

http://usera.imagecave.com/capcom2000/hpim8535.jpg

....
...

[nathanallan]

You went to the trouble of putting a new reset switch in, but left the dim little red led?? It would have gotten changed in my house.

I have a couple of reset switches that need replacing, too.

[ooXxXoo]

You went to the trouble of putting a new reset switch in, but left the dim little red led?? It would have gotten changed in my house.



I'm not much of an LED person really....I only use them for lighting up lcd screens and for those freggin NES 2 Top Loaders...."Talk about Nintendo going cheap on us" :D ......

http://usera.imagecave.com/capcom2000/hpim6230.jpg

[Ace]

You should do the same to the Super NES Mini, another system Nintendo went cheap on by not putting a single power light(I added a power LED to my Super NES Mini).

[gamegenie]

Ace I bet you know how to add composite AV to the NES-2 (top loader). Do you?

I use to want one of those until I found out that Nintendo removed the AV jacks so it only supports the RF adapater..

Stupidest move ever in my opinion.

[ooXxXoo]

Ace I bet you know how to add composite AV to the NES-2 (top loader). Do you?

I use to want one of those until I found out that Nintendo removed the AV jacks so it only supports the RF adapater..

Stupidest move ever in my opinion.

How do you like these:

http://usera.imagecave.com/capcom2000/hpim8054.jpg

http://usera.imagecave.com/capcom2000/hpim8014.jpg

[gamegenie]

How do you like these:

http://usera.imagecave.com/capcom2000/hpim8054.jpg

http://usera.imagecave.com/capcom2000/hpim8014.jpg

oooh , me likes a lot . http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t309/Teh_Diplomat/mysmilie_793gif.png



how were you able to get stereo out of the NES? http://www.systemwars.com/forums/images/smilies/wonder.gif

[streetsofrage]

nice ! i went to your site retro-console and found nothing i don't think the site exist , was it easy doing those mods?

[ooXxXoo]

Ooops!, yes my site is currently down....I'm trying to update several things...I 've done so many kinds of different mods that sometimes is hard to keep up with them...The site is here for now: www.console-alliance.webs.com ,

And when it comes to the NES Stereo sound, If is possible to split the sound into 2 channels, But I don't do it, simply because it was meant to be Mono...I just do dual mono audio jacks for those to create a wall of sound in tv stereo speakers...
....
Everything takes time, and for those that are not used to a solderind iron, Please "don't catch your house in fire"
.....

[kool kitty89]

They should have just gone with the standard Nintendo A/V port on the NES 2 and offered an RF switch with integrated RF modulator. (like the Genesis Model 2 did)

A question though, is the video signal still noisier on the NES 2 in composite than on the Toaster, or is it just as good? (I know the RF is worse than the original, I think due to less sheilding)


The NES 2 is sleeker, but the biggest advantage for most is the reliability. (due both to the lack of the over-sensitive 10NES lockout chip, and the toploading mechanism)

With some very simple modding though, a toaster becomes very reliable; disable the 10NES chip (cut pin 15 of chip 3193A -for NA models), polish the 72-pin connector (emery board or fine sandpaper 500+ grit), you usually don't need to replace the connector. (at mose you may need to bend the pins out a tiny bit for a better connection, but usually cleaning polishing is enough)

With clean carts this setup is nearly perfect, no blinking ever (a direct result of the 10NES), rarely any garbage or a blank/pastel screen, boots flawlessly almost all the time. You can even shake the console and bump it a bit without issues!

[ooXxXoo]

They should have just gone with the standard Nintendo A/V port on the NES 2 and offered an RF switch with integrated RF modulator. (like the Genesis Model 2 did)

A question though, is the video signal still noisier on the NES 2 in composite than on the Toaster, or is it just as good? (I know the RF is worse than the original, I think due to less sheilding)


The NES 2 is sleeker, but the biggest advantage for most is the reliability. (due both to the lack of the over-sensitive 10NES lockout chip, and the toploading mechanism)

With some very simple modding though, a toaster becomes very reliable; disable the 10NES chip (cut pin 15 of chip 3193A -for NA models), polish the 72-pin connector (emery board or fine sandpaper 500+ grit), you usually don't need to replace the connector. (at mose you may need to bend the pins out a tiny bit for a better connection, but usually cleaning polishing is enough)

With clean carts this setup is nearly perfect, no blinking ever (a direct result of the 10NES), rarely any garbage or a blank/pastel screen, boots flawlessly almost all the time. You can even shake the console and bump it a bit without issues!

If the NES 2 Top Loader AV mod is done correctly, the ghosting effect should disappear....Some video amps that I've seen in other sites are not reliable at all.....
.....

[nathanallan]

As for the first NES's, I'm going to start making them all top loaders. I have found the pressure from having the cart in the down position breaks traces on the back edge of the mainboard. Just 'fixed' one person's for them, told them not to put it down and it'll be fine (pushing it down makes the end of the board flex and breaks contact, also disabled her lockout chip as described above).

I have to figure out a cheap way to make a kit for the electronic parts, though.

[kool kitty89]

I have found the pressure from having the cart in the down position breaks traces on the back edge of the mainboard. Just 'fixed' one person's for them, told them not to put it down and it'll be fine (pushing it down makes the end of the board flex and breaks contact

Hmm, I bet those super-stiff pinned replacement connectors would accelerate this problem, putting more force on the board. Of course, you'd run into the same problem if you reset the pins on an old connector and bent them out a bit too far. (or from users trying to get worn systems to work by forcing the carts down extra far, and wedging them)

I've never gotten a replacement connector, but I've heard they're really tight, requiring a lot of force to insert or remove a cart, and allowing carts to boot without pushing them down.

[nathanallan]

Hmm, I bet those super-stiff pinned replacement connectors would accelerate this problem, putting more force on the board. Of course, you'd run into the same problem if you reset the pins on an old connector and bent them out a bit too far. (or from users trying to get worn systems to work by forcing the carts down extra far, and wedging them)

I've never gotten a replacement connector, but I've heard they're really tight, requiring a lot of force to insert or remove a cart, and allowing carts to boot without pushing them down.

Exactly, they are very tight though they do tend to loosen up over time. The extra grip there seems to increase the pressure that bends the board even more (I think you said that ..?). From an aesthetic point of view it's really attractive, but technically it's an accident waiting to happen. Well, already happened.

The one I put in my machine is like pushing in an ISA slot vertically, takes a LOT of pressure and wiggling to get it in and out.

If nobody has that experience, grab a crappy computer and put in an ISA card, any non-8-bit one will work, and give it a go. Not easy, and can't be good for the board that houses it.

[17daysolderthannes]

Hmm, I bet those super-stiff pinned replacement connectors would accelerate this problem, putting more force on the board. Of course, you'd run into the same problem if you reset the pins on an old connector and bent them out a bit too far. (or from users trying to get worn systems to work by forcing the carts down extra far, and wedging them)

I've never gotten a replacement connector, but I've heard they're really tight, requiring a lot of force to insert or remove a cart, and allowing carts to boot without pushing them down.

oh god, this bullshit again? the 3rd party 72-pins are 1000% better than the original NES crap. They are designed to work in the "up" position so they work more like a standard pin connector. The grip is far from "too tight" and only a total pussy would think it was hard to get games out. My Model 1 Genesis grips at least twice as tightly as a new 3rd party connector for an NES. It does not add any stress to the motherboard, all applicable stresses are accounted for with the screws and the tray.

cliff notes: don't believe the random dumbfucks that don't know what they're talking about, mechanical engineering is my domain and I'm telling you it is better. Computer science guys may know how to program a good emulator demo or a homebrew game, but mechanical aspects of consoles are best left to those with the proper credentials.

[kool kitty89]

As I said I have no personal experience with the aftermarket connectors, I was just making an observation on his comments on finding NES's with broken traces on the circut board apparently from stressed resulting from leverage on the connector.

An interesting comparison is with his "best NES ever" he got, apparently with a stock (and very loose/smooth, truely ZIF) connector that works "bang on every time" though I'll be the 10NES has bee disabled:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hF4xt4OXp9c&feature=channel_page


That said, I've had no trouble with simply cleaning/maintaining the stock connector, hence why I haven't gotten a new one. (and certainly, reliability of an NES with a cleaned and polished stock connector +disabled 10NES > aftermarket connector with working 10NES)

[17daysolderthannes]

That said, I've had no trouble with simply cleaning/maintaining the stock connector, hence why I haven't gotten a new one. (and certainly, reliability of an NES with a cleaned and polished stock connector +disabled 10NES > aftermarket connector with working 10NES)


Having more experience than anyone here with the matter, I disagree.

I don't know why everyone is so stubborn in sticking with the shitty original pin connector. If a 3rd party company made a more reliable Sega CD laser, wouldn't you want that one? The only reason I still have the original pin connector in mine is because I still have the one I got for Christmas in 1990 and I took care of it so it works fine. If I was buying a used one, the first thing to be done would be to put in the 3rd party connector.

[nathanallan]

What a response! After reading and re-reading, the 3rd party connectors are better, when properly installed with all mounting screws, as you said.

I was not the first person inside the machine, and two of the mounting screws were missing. I had some and put them in but I sure did find broken traces on the board. It still bent and didn't work. This is one particular abused machine, not all NES's.

As far as I can tell, no random dumbfucks have chimed in this particular thread. Though I'm no engineer.

The design of the whole front-load system is nice to look at but after seeing broken traces from stress that seems to be caused by the up/down of the cart I'm going to see about putting together a kit to make them all top load from the rear at a 90 degree angle.

17days, it's all good, just general discussion about a specific console.

Wowza!

Nathan

[E-Man]

Can a model 1 Genesis reset button be fixed too? Mine won't work.

[Baloo]

Can a model 1 Genesis reset button be fixed too? Mine won't work.

Neither will mine. Try cleaning the contacts.

[ooXxXoo]

Same fix can be applied for Genesis model 1 reset button...
....Tact switches can last a long time, they use them a lot now a days, dvd players, vcr's and all sorts of electronic devices...
....

[nathanallan]

mechanical engineering is my domain


how can you tell the polarity of an AC transformer? Aren't most video game systems the same for the same type of plug?

'nuff from me.

[kool kitty89]

He did say mechanical engineering not electrical. Though I would think someone who worked on console repair would know about the polarity thing... :confused: