Sega Cd tray problem PT 2

[Thunderblaze16]

I had a Model 1 that had a problem very similar to the one you are having. I ended up buying one that worked mechanically but that wouldn't read disks and combined the 2 to make 1 good one.

Below the big black gear is a cylinder that has a groove in it that lifts/drops the tray as it turns with the gear. On mine, the cage around the cylinder that holds it in place had broken free from the steel frame around the tray and it wouldn't hold the cylinder still so the little tab at the front of the tray would slip out of the groove and the tray wouldn't lift up. I tried gluing it to no avail and ended up buying the parts unit. It works excellent now. I suspect your tray, after watching you jiggle it in the video, has some of the plastic mounts broken. You could try gluing it with some very strong epoxy that bonds steel and plastic, but you need to let it cure completely before you try to re-assemble.

Hope you can get it fixed. If you'd like to try dismantlilng it further, I may have some parts left over from fixing mine that can help you get yours back up to snuff.

OK so this was pretty much the problem,

This wheel tube thing covered with some strange white cream wasn't placed properly so it wouldn't spin.


The black wheel has a limited sit of teeth in the bottom, I randomly put the black wheel in a way that makes it now spin,








Ok so what I'm facing now is, WHAT ARE THE PROPER WAYS AND ROTATIONS TO PUT BACK THE BLACK WHEEL? do the black wheel's teeth need to be facing full left, does the black tube wheel need to be in full right?

its the placements, this is what I'm facing atm

it be so much easier if one of you can sell me a broken model 1 so I can remove its led board and switch with this one. cause other than the wheel placements ,THERES NOTHING WRONG WITH THIS Beast! actually also trying to know when the tray needs to be inserted

[Thunderblaze16]

also yea a piece in the back is might have been broken off

[omp]

Hmmm
I was hoping to come on here and offer some helpful advice but my MCD1 looks nothing like that, almost back to front (or left to right). I am in the process of giving mine a good service, wash the case, clean the boards and re-lube all the gears/slides clean the laser and fit multi-bios. When I was re-assembling the tray into the unit there is a black plastic piece that has a stem that when the tray closes, slides into a grove on the under side of the tray. When that happens the laser bed comes up. To fit the tray properly you have to hold that piece out, till you get the rear of the tray past the laser/ disc spindle. Once you do, you push that plastic piece with the stem into the tray and the whole thing works. When I first put it back together, I forgot to do that and the tray went in out and the laser bed wouldn't come up.

[Thunderblaze16]

I'll see, cause the sega cd has nothing wrong with it, the only problem are the gear placements, there messed up

[omp]

Hey mate not sure if this will help, I took some pics of my drive before I put it all back together again. I only went so far as removing the tray.


step one.JPGpin on plate.JPGlocating groove on tray.JPGgears.JPG

[omp]

The rest hope this helps

plate with locating pin.JPGtray halfway.JPGpush locating pin plate in slightly.JPGfinal step.JPG

[evilevoix]

Same issue here. My tray won't lift. Th issue I believe is the lubrication. I will re grease it.

[oldskool]

If the tray will not lift it's usually due to the belt/band. It's probably too loose. You can replace the belt with an o-ring from the auto parts store, make sure it's got some slack, but a snug fit. The old belt is probably too weak to lift the laser assembly. I have seen this before. The gears are usually not the issue. It's hard to explain but once you have the gears set a certain way everything sort of aligns itself. The engineers did that so that if you push or pull on the tray by hand, it should be able to reset it'self back into the neutral position. There is only one way that it all fits together. Usually the issues with a model 1 are either the belt, the laser, or the fuse.

Sometimes there are other problems like broken mounts and hinges which you should keep an eye out for as well.

There is a thread about a recent repair a friend and I did on Digital Press. You can read about it here:

http://www.digitpress.com/forum/show...-1-Tray-Issues

[oldskool]

Hey mate not sure if this will help, I took some pics of my drive before I put it all back together again. I only went so far as removing the tray.


step one.JPGpin on plate.JPGlocating groove on tray.JPGgears.JPG

That's odd. This looks nothing like the few Sega CD Model 1 units I've had apart. Are there a couple revisions? Maybe the Australian version was different?

[evilevoix]

If the tray will not lift it's usually due to the belt/band. It's probably too loose. You can replace the belt with an o-ring from the auto parts store, make sure it's got some slack, but a snug fit. The old belt is probably too weak to lift the laser assembly. I have seen this before. The gears are usually not the issue. It's hard to explain but once you have the gears set a certain way everything sort of aligns itself. The engineers did that so that if you push or pull on the tray by hand, it should be able to reset it'self back into the neutral position. There is only one way that it all fits together. Usually the issues with a model 1 are either the belt, the laser, or the fuse.

Sometimes there are other problems like broken mounts and hinges which you should keep an eye out for as well.

There is a thread about a recent repair a friend and I did on Digital Press. You can read about it here:

http://www.digitpress.com/forum/show...-1-Tray-Issues

Mine has nothing to do with the belt. I can hear the gears grinding when it tries to lift. However when I checked the gears they are not stripped. I will re-grease the entire fitting and maybe put some cotton under the tray to get the lift back.

Anyone have some extra parts from a dead system?

[Barone]

I'm really interested in getting a model 1 unit for my model 1 Genesis, but they seem prone to breaking down a lot. Is this really a common issue? How easy are they to repair?

Not only to breaking down. How will you clean up the lens? It's a major pain in the butt. OTOH, the model 2 is a piece of cake to clean. And, man, sometimes just a bit of dust is enough to make your FMVs choke or the music play with some bad noise or the game crashes during loading.
There's some very simple things that you must keep in your mind in order to avoid a lot of pain with consoles:
- Always choose the models with less mechanical/moving parts.
- Prefer the ones easier to disassemble (Sega CD model 2 vs Sega CD model 1 and PSOne vs old PS1 are classic examples).
- Avoid super-compact models like CDX or you'll have problems with heating. And remember: more heating == less durability/reliability. Dreamcast has bad issues with heating. Also the Saturn has its own thanks to the internal PSU placed near to the laser assembly: it will provide a shorter life to your laser.
- Look into the specific forums for each console to know about the models with better quality components. Examples: Duo-R and Duo-RX are more reliable and have better sound compared to the original Duo model; 'cause the Duo uses low-quality components. PSOne has a far better CD-ROM drive than the earlier models... Model 1 Genesis/Mega Drive has better sound in most of the revisions and the best for overclock is the VA5/VA6. Model 2 Genesis/Mega Drive also is said to have extra noise when using Game Genie or another devices in the cartridge slot (Sonic combo with Sonic & Knucles is also said to cause noise).
- Always pay attention to the PSU you're using. I always look for PSUs that can give me some extra power compared to the console specification 'cause I like to attach tons of peripherals and they certainly consume something else. I really don't believe that they state the specifications based in the power consumption of a multitap plugged with 4 arcade controllers or 2 multitap using 8 controllers. They certainly specify the power consumption based on one cartridge in the slot and 2 regular pads plugged.
I use CDX PSUs for the Mega Drive model 1 and Sega CD model 2.
Also, PSUs tend to lower their capacity after sometime and it may damage your system if the PSUs were initially working in 90-100% of the capacity. Always unplug them after use to provide a longer life.
Attention with imports: Japanese PSUs usually are 100V, if you're in a country with 110V, like me, it may damage them after some time and maybe they will be outputting different values compared to their specifications.
It's very easy to use different original PSUs between Mega Drive/32X/CDX/Sega CD but you have to change the plug to fit each model and be very careful to use the right polarity. Always pay attention to power consumption/output and voltage specifications to see if they are compatible and enough for your needs.
- Everything is prone to break down is some extent, so always consider the following questions: Which is the most reliable model? For which model is easier to find replacement parts? Which one is the easier to fix? Example: The Sony KSS210 (most, if not all, of the Sega CD model 2 revision 1) is very easy to find and the same one used in several other CD-based machines (I think Commodore CD32 uses it, among others...). This laser assembly is also better for CD-Rs and less error prone AFAIK.

This is the reason I prefer the Model 2 Sega CD. Top loader CD units are just better to me, as less moving parts = less prone to breaking down.

Yep, they're also easier to maintain.

there is a reason why SEGA dumped the M1 and released M2

Yes. Model 2 is not only a cosmetic change. It fixed several bugs and problems of the Model 1.

[Cholkavich]

I just repaired a broken model 1 about 2 weeks ago. It wouldnt eject the disc then after that it would constantly eject disc then after that the laser wouldn't lift into place. It all had to do with the gears. If you the the model 1 apart and thake the disc drive off and look on the underside there is a pot that controls the mechanism that lifts and lowers the laser. With mine, it was off by a few gears so it would just make a clicking sound. So try loosening the larger black gear on the top and adjust the mechanism that controls the laser assembly. Once I figured this out I lubricated the rail the laser slides on and slightly adjusted the focus of the laser and works perfectly every time

[evilevoix]

I just repaired a broken model 1 about 2 weeks ago. It wouldnt eject the disc then after that it would constantly eject disc then after that the laser wouldn't lift into place. It all had to do with the gears. If you the the model 1 apart and thake the disc drive off and look on the underside there is a pot that controls the mechanism that lifts and lowers the laser. With mine, it was off by a few gears so it would just make a clicking sound. So try loosening the larger black gear on the top and adjust the mechanism that controls the laser assembly. Once I figured this out I lubricated the rail the laser slides on and slightly adjusted the focus of the laser and works perfectly every time

That is my plan. What did you use to lubricate the assembly?

[Cholkavich]

i used a machine lubricant on the rails that the laser sits on, its like a clear oil. I did a very very very small dab on each then moved the laser back and forth to spread it evenly. Ill posting a small guide detailing my experience repairing my model 1 since there really inst a whole lot on the web. When searching to fix mine i had trouble even finding pictures of the model 1 fuse let alone parts of the gears and what they do. So id like to help out other people. Iam in no way an expert at anything sega cd i just reseached and tinkered a lot.

[Cholkavich]

also yea a piece in the back is might have been broken off

yea you'll need to glue that part back on if you still have it otherwise the laser wont lift and fall right and it will cause the cd tray to jam.