Thank you for adding in that info. I haven't ass'ed about with changing video encoders. I have only ever seen the MB3514 video encoder in PAL MD2 consoles, these seem to be just fine on their own.
I encourage you to do the single switch mod for region changing, just a bit neater (1 switch neater?). All you need is an on-on-on 3 position 2 pole switch (I use 3 position, 4 pole slide switch off ebay) and a 4 pin 4.433619Mhz (for Genesis) or 3.579545Mhz (for MD2) oscillator. Combining the guides from MMMonkey (where to get points), Damomonster (oscillator install) and DevilN's (single switch theory) it is pretty straight forward. I do have a hand sketch I can scan if you like?
So you actually were able to bypass the KA instead of taking its RGB and passing it to the 2075? This is possibly the best Genesis setup I think although I'd love it if the model 1 could have it's encoder swapped with a 2075.
I dunno about the rest of you, but 1145s really aren't that bad. The S-Video vertical line problem is barely visible on CRTs and the rainbow banding can only be seen with some graphical effects. The only encoder in serious need of replacing is the KA2195D, it's horrible.
So this would make my model 1 sound better? I run stereo out from the Model 1 headphone jack.
Actually, just a re-capping would do you good Evil. Replacing all the audio and video capacitors will breath some new life into your Genesis. Right now it's not exactly necessary, but in 10 or so years it will be.
If you're particularly anal about audio, there does exist a Model 1 "CCAM". It's basically a discrete YM2612 audio amp to counterpart the ASIC version (the one everyone knows as the CCAM). Again I'm not sure if it's confidential or not, can't remember.
Everything sounds perfect now. I hope people will still work on these things ten years from now.
I know recapping on Model 1's is something that should typically be done on earlier models, but how essential is it to do on a Model 2?
Well, I should have been more specific earlier, but the age of the caps and the brand both factor into when you should replace them. I can't remember specific names off hand, someone else would have to chime in on that.
I think some early model 2s overlap with some late Model 1s, but other than that, Model 2s are newer. Generally speaking it'll probably be another 10 or so years before Model 2s start to become a worry. Less time with bad brand caps and more with good.
Perhaps Villahed94 could specify further.
Dragon your mods are good and those youtube videos are very nice indeed. Maybe Tmee could add that comparison video to orginal post as it shows how great audio the CCAM v.1 adds to MD2/Genesis2.
#MEGADRIVEJeroi @ Quakenet irc server.
Be true to yourself. GFX doesn't matter, the game does. If you are intrested to donate one NTSC Genesis for hardware testing purposes, please pm me.
Sorry I've been avoiding this forum to cool off.
I did the exact same install in my model 1 but the model 1 has too many video issues going on (rainbow banding and noticable jailbars).
Cuntz: I solder fine but if you wiggle the wires enough sometimes they break on their own so I use hot glue to secure them in place where they've been soldered. I also never claimed I'm the first person to do this so stop acting like I did.
Jeroi: Yeah I'm trying to get tiido the exposure he deserves. I got the comparison video up on hackaday. And I made a quick sonic 2 video to further demonstrate how amazing it sounds:
Another option would be to built a cxa2075 encoder into a small external box that encodes the rgb. However that's twice encoding the signal after the rgb passes through the built in encoder of the system which results in downgrading of colour encoding and possibly even video quality. That's why I've been internalizing the cxa2075 circuits into my systems and tapping the rgb signals before they go through the built in system encoders. It's really easy to tap all the necessary lines without removing the original encoder.
Last edited by Drakon; 01-28-2012 at 01:43 PM.
Good joints shouldn't break off. Though if you're soldering to really tiny points on the PCB, yeah some tape to hold the wire in place or a bit of hot glue is a good idea, but not a whole stick.
Relax ladies, Sega-16 is not a forum for people to insult other's work. Offer some Constructive Criticism, and you won't find yourself in petty bickerings like this.
Feedback Thread: http://www.sega-16.com/forum/showthr...ack&highlight=
Hot glue doesn't damage anything so I'll use as much of it as I like. There's nothing wrong with hot glue so your argument is pointless and annoying. And did you ever consider that people call you cuntz because you're a cunt? I never knew that other people called you that but I can totally understand where they were coming from.
Huge amounts of hot glue is both wasteful and a sign of sloppy modding. Go have a look at TmEE's CCAM soldering, it's amazing.
I guess we're two sides of the same coin, because I have proof you're a hypocritical dick yet you constantly deny it. Unlike you I have quite a few friends here. The last guy to call me cuntz got ravaged by the community because he was an asshole and painted his Model 2 with what looked like library paste. He got banned multiple times.
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