My genesis 2. VA1 with crystal clear audio mod, cxa1645 circuit and a region switch

[Drakon]

Seriously, it looks like you fapped all over the motherboard. It's nothing to be proud of.

Neither is being a troll but that doesn't stop you

[omp]

Thank you for adding in that info. I haven't ass'ed about with changing video encoders. I have only ever seen the MB3514 video encoder in PAL MD2 consoles, these seem to be just fine on their own.

I encourage you to do the single switch mod for region changing, just a bit neater (1 switch neater?). All you need is an on-on-on 3 position 2 pole switch (I use 3 position, 4 pole slide switch off ebay) and a 4 pin 4.433619Mhz (for Genesis) or 3.579545Mhz (for MD2) oscillator. Combining the guides from MMMonkey (where to get points), Damomonster (oscillator install) and DevilN's (single switch theory) it is pretty straight forward. I do have a hand sketch I can scan if you like?

[tony]

So you actually were able to bypass the KA instead of taking its RGB and passing it to the 2075? This is possibly the best Genesis setup I think although I'd love it if the model 1 could have it's encoder swapped with a 2075.

[Guntz]

Neither is being a troll but that doesn't stop you

As you can see Trekkies, Drakon is clearly insecure with his modding skills, hence the need for absurd amounts of hot glue. I've seen his earlier work and it's not much better. If you solder good, hot joints, they won't break off.

So you actually were able to bypass the KA instead of taking its RGB and passing it to the 2075? This is possibly the best Genesis setup I think although I'd love it if the model 1 could have it's encoder swapped with a 2075.

Please keep in mind Drakon is not the first person to do this, despite what he says. Swapping the KA2195D with other video encoders has been documented on Sega-16 years before. As I've said before, the 2075 is the most compatible with the KA2195D. Theoretically it can be done with the 1145 too, but in Model 1s they are DIP and 2075s seem to only come in surface mount format. The 1645 is quite a bit different, not as easily switchable with the other encoders. It can still be swapped out but it needs more components, so I for one don't recommend it that much. Besides, the 1645 is just fine, very good encoder all around... But the 2075 is better, more efficient and more compatible with other encoders.

I dunno about the rest of you, but 1145s really aren't that bad. The S-Video vertical line problem is barely visible on CRTs and the rainbow banding can only be seen with some graphical effects. The only encoder in serious need of replacing is the KA2195D, it's horrible.

[evilevoix]

So this would make my model 1 sound better? I run stereo out from the Model 1 headphone jack.

[Guntz]

Actually, just a re-capping would do you good Evil. Replacing all the audio and video capacitors will breath some new life into your Genesis. Right now it's not exactly necessary, but in 10 or so years it will be.

If you're particularly anal about audio, there does exist a Model 1 "CCAM". It's basically a discrete YM2612 audio amp to counterpart the ASIC version (the one everyone knows as the CCAM). Again I'm not sure if it's confidential or not, can't remember.

[evilevoix]

Everything sounds perfect now. I hope people will still work on these things ten years from now.

[TrekkiesUnite118]

I know recapping on Model 1's is something that should typically be done on earlier models, but how essential is it to do on a Model 2?

[Guntz]

Well, I should have been more specific earlier, but the age of the caps and the brand both factor into when you should replace them. I can't remember specific names off hand, someone else would have to chime in on that.

I think some early model 2s overlap with some late Model 1s, but other than that, Model 2s are newer. Generally speaking it'll probably be another 10 or so years before Model 2s start to become a worry. Less time with bad brand caps and more with good.

Perhaps Villahed94 could specify further.

[MEGADRIVE Jeroi]

Dragon your mods are good and those youtube videos are very nice indeed. Maybe Tmee could add that comparison video to orginal post as it shows how great audio the CCAM v.1 adds to MD2/Genesis2.

[Drakon]

Sorry I've been avoiding this forum to cool off.

So you actually were able to bypass the KA instead of taking its RGB and passing it to the 2075? This is possibly the best Genesis setup I think although I'd love it if the model 1 could have it's encoder swapped with a 2075.

Yeah you can bypass the ka encoder without removing it it's very easy. If you grab the rgb after it goes through the ka that'll probably downgrade the video quality (I tried that once twice encoding a signal that passed through a cxa1145 and the video quality downgraded as a result). In fact I just did the same thing with my snes jr leaving the original encoder in the system and bypassing the signals having them go into a cxa2075.

I did the exact same install in my model 1 but the model 1 has too many video issues going on (rainbow banding and noticable jailbars).

Cuntz: I solder fine but if you wiggle the wires enough sometimes they break on their own so I use hot glue to secure them in place where they've been soldered. I also never claimed I'm the first person to do this so stop acting like I did.

Jeroi: Yeah I'm trying to get tiido the exposure he deserves. I got the comparison video up on hackaday. And I made a quick sonic 2 video to further demonstrate how amazing it sounds:



Another option would be to built a cxa2075 encoder into a small external box that encodes the rgb. However that's twice encoding the signal after the rgb passes through the built in encoder of the system which results in downgrading of colour encoding and possibly even video quality. That's why I've been internalizing the cxa2075 circuits into my systems and tapping the rgb signals before they go through the built in system encoders. It's really easy to tap all the necessary lines without removing the original encoder.

[Guntz]

Cuntz: I solder fine but if you wiggle the wires enough sometimes they break on their own so I use hot glue to secure them in place where they've been soldered. I also never claimed I'm the first person to do this so stop acting like I did.

Well if we're gonna reduce to name calling (very mature bro), maybe I'll start calling you Fapon, since you love to stroke your ego. Worthless noobs on here that got banned called me cuntz before too, so I guess you're not even original with insults, much less mods you claim you invented.

Good joints shouldn't break off. Though if you're soldering to really tiny points on the PCB, yeah some tape to hold the wire in place or a bit of hot glue is a good idea, but not a whole stick.

[Baloo]

Relax ladies, Sega-16 is not a forum for people to insult other's work. Offer some Constructive Criticism, and you won't find yourself in petty bickerings like this.

[Drakon]

Hot glue doesn't damage anything so I'll use as much of it as I like. There's nothing wrong with hot glue so your argument is pointless and annoying. And did you ever consider that people call you cuntz because you're a cunt? I never knew that other people called you that but I can totally understand where they were coming from.

[Guntz]

Huge amounts of hot glue is both wasteful and a sign of sloppy modding. Go have a look at TmEE's CCAM soldering, it's amazing.

I guess we're two sides of the same coin, because I have proof you're a hypocritical dick yet you constantly deny it. Unlike you I have quite a few friends here. The last guy to call me cuntz got ravaged by the community because he was an asshole and painted his Model 2 with what looked like library paste. He got banned multiple times.