the prob with bin+cue is you (meaning I) have to completely dump it to verify it
to verify it i need to be familiar with it to begin with! (hehe)
just prey, prey a lot
the point is that if you burn @ 48X max, it might spread to data out too far for a 1X drive to read quickly enough.
however, burning below 4X on a modern system might be impossible for many ppl, or cause errors itself.
"1/2 its max speed" should be slow enough for it to burn a "clean" disk that a 1X drive shouldnt have any probs with.
One more time... sigh.
Modern CD drives don't write the same speed all the way across the CD when set for high speeds - they write at different speeds at different places along the CD. 48X is the speed at the outermost speed zone on the CD. If your CD burning software shows the write speed, you'll notice you start closer to 20X to 24X on the innermost (starting point) of the CD. Most drives use zones where the speed is fairly constant, then jump to a higher speed when they reach a spot where that speed is possible. If you watch the speed, it'll stay around 20X for a while, then jump to 28X and stay for a while, then jump to 36X, and so on. If you see that, the disc will almost certainly NOT work on old consoles like the SCD. Any drive up to 6X always assumed the entire disc was at the same speed. They cannot handle the sudden change from one speed to another.
If the speed changes slowly and evenly from the start of the disc to the end of the disc, that MIGHT work on an old console. Some of the old drives could track a slow even change to a certain extent. I wouldn't bet on a disc that evenly changed from 20 to 48X to be readable all the way through. In any case, if the speed changes at all, it stresses the laser assembly (but not the laser itself) since you're forcing it to run at speeds it wasn't meant to run at. That 20 to 48 change is equivalent to a change from 1X to 2.4X... on a drive meant to handle 1X speeds.
So you don't need to use the slowest speed possible, you need to use the fastest speed that DOESN'T change across the disc, or only changes slowly and evenly and NOT by a whole lot. I burn all my discs at 10X, which for my drive actually means it changes slowly and evenly from about 8X to about 12X, with an AVERAGE speed of 10X.
I had several problems with burning Sega CDs before, so I did some research on suggestions. I switched brands of CDRs and started burning at 1x. Since I had no problems doing it this way, I have done it this way ever since. So I always burn at 1x speed, I may not need to, but it works. (And besides, 98% of the time I am burning a version of a homebrew I am working on which isn't too big and the burning speed barely affects how long it takes to burn a disc).
Some people, like eddiespruce, think that the rest of the world is made of idiots or something... But if I'm setting it to 48X is 'cause I have tested ALL other speed options before and this one makes the discs work perfectly in my Mega CD. At first, I followed this myth of "the slower the better" and the discs were not working at all. My drive speed options starts with 10X but none of the other speed settings work as well as 48X. And with several different cheap brands it worked perfectly using 48X.
My PS1, on the other hand, does not read discs burned using that drive, no matter what CD-R brand and what speed. I have to use my notebook's drive at 24X to make good discs and use the shittiest brand avaible, other than that the discs won't work at all.
So don't be stupid, people, each case is different and all factors do matter.
I'm willing to be proven wrong but this is something I see posted again and again on gaming forums yet never see any evidence or technical data to back it up.
Last edited by Silanda; 03-23-2012 at 11:45 AM.
The clock is extracted/regenerated from the data read from the laser. The clock goes through a feedback circuit that controls the motor speed. The point is the circuit that extracts the clock and data cannot operate but within a very narrow range of the base frequency. And yes, the capacity DOES vary across the disc - that's the whole point of changing the speed at different parts of the disc to obtain higher storage on new drives. You really need to look into how CDs/DVDs/floppies/harddrives/etc work some time.How? How does varying burn speed alter read speed? How would the reading drive even be aware of any change, especially in the case of one that was never designed to read CD-Rs in the first place? If that was the case and if the drive had to read faster than its design it would also mean that the data capacity of the disc would vary depending on write speed, something which is obviously not true.
EDIT: Oh, and as for accusing people of lying: where are all these people who can't play high speed burned games? They get mentioned in every thread I read about this subject yet they always seem strangely invisible. FWIW, I tried playing Snatcher: a game noted for being an arse for not loading from bad copies, playing saves from a few parts of the game, and using the Mega-CD to play back the audio tracks from across the disc. All worked fine with load times between locations and seek time between tracks no longer than would be expected from the original disc.
Last edited by Silanda; 03-23-2012 at 06:17 PM.
I just HAVE to give my TRUE personal experience testimonial every time someone asks about the right speed to burn a CD game 'cause I wasted several discs following the "law" that some guys try to force as the only way possible.
If your CD-Rs are working well burning at low speeds, so good for you and it's all good IMO too. But if you are having problems I just suggest that you try the other speeds as well 'cause there are exceptions, yes. And, no, I'm not lying. Just trying to help people to not waste 20-30 discs or a laser assembly based on fundamentalism.
If you search you'll find guys on several other forums telling that the right speed for them is higher than what most of the people recommend as THE ONLY ONE POSSIBLE most of the time.
I really could record several playthroughs using my discs burned at 48x but that would be a huge waste of time just to show what is obvious: what works for you, and you think that is the only truth to exist, may not work for other people.
It seems all this tech bickering has frightened off the OP. Or perhaps he's just looking up those previous threads.
Anyway a point to be made is to avoid setting a drive write speed your CD-R doesn't have. If you choose x16 and your disk only supports x20 your burning program will adjust the speed mid process and you'll get a coaster. Just my experience.
Also, most ISO dumps are made for emulation as opposed to burning and these really are opposite ends. The uploader has usually monkeyed with something in the file; if you change anything back you'll have to create a new cue.
IMGBurn will reformat mp3 and wav automatically.
^ because you are trying to burn ISO+MP3s.
these files are not meant for burning.
This thread is murky and confusing as hell. lol
I download ISO's from EMUPARADISE and they have all seemed fine AFAIK...
So that means there is no practical way to verify it???
Almost all of the Sega CD's I burned from ISO's have worked fine. How would you even tell if something was altered, so long as the game seemed to play perfectly fine?
As for CD burning speeds, my burned Sega CD's have worked fine no matter what speed I've burned them at. I started out burning them real slowly, but then tried max speed to see what would happen, and they all work fine.
I guess I'm one of the people who doesn't understand how different burning speeds would affect the burned CD. Isn't the burner creating the same exact disc image, no matter what speed it's at? Wouldn't that mean that the CD is physically identical no matter what speed it was burned at???
Last edited by Ecco; 03-24-2012 at 12:54 AM.
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