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Thread: Ask general Genesis/MD/Sega CD/32X questions here (for new members)

  1. #2146
    AKA Mister Xiado WCPO Agent Raijin Z's Avatar
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    Bleh, if I had more experience, I'd be glad to help, but I only have one Sega CD, and it's only had fossilized cola problems, nothing electronic. I, myself, won't do a re-cap project on anything, so it's hard to tell other people to do so. Still, screwy capacitors mess with voltage levels, and voltage levels tell chips and transistors that something is on or off. Voltage is too low, when it should be high? Off state. Goofed up caps can cause digital issues, not just bad analog sound.
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    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingNameless One pyroesp's Avatar
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    It's best to try with another 9V power supply just to rule out that yours is dead or not.
    Best case scenario it's your power supply.
    Worst case something is drawing to much current and that's why your voltage is lower than usual.

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    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingSports Talker Madness Hero's Avatar
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    That was gonna be the first thing I'm gonna rule out is the power source, I'm using a shitty thirdy party power cord n I don't think I've ever heard of anyone that was happy with one lol. Do you think changing the vregs would have caused this? New ones demanding more voltage than the failing caps can provide? The reason I say my caps are failing is 1. They're original, and 2. Tho they don't appear to be popped or leaking but several of them have stretched sleaves which is a sign of bulging. Like I said it worked right before changing them but it was acting strange (for instance when powered up when the game yells "SEGA" it sounded high pitched like the Chipmunks). I also had 0 trouble getting em out so I don't think I damaged any components or the board.
    "Keep your friends close but get your enemies toaster."

  4. #2149
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingSports Talker Madness Hero's Avatar
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    Also in regard to the va3 I'm 100% confident the cap job is fine i went over the board doing 1 cap at a time taking note of orientation and cap type. I'm pretty sure it's either bad traces I can't find or bad chips.
    "Keep your friends close but get your enemies toaster."

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    Still no luck on the VA 6. I have no idea what's causing it but when I turn it on my dc output voltage from the cord drops from 9v to 6v. Wish I had my original cord :/
    "Keep your friends close but get your enemies toaster."

  6. #2151
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingNameless One pyroesp's Avatar
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    I don't think changing your voltage reg would cause something like that. My guess is your power supply is under too much load.
    Anything getting hot in there when powering it up?

  7. #2152
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    The vregs got a lil warm after leaving it on for a few minutes to check for heat but everything else seems fine temp wise. I'm kinda wondering about the power source myself. It's a really cheap unit, the wall block is so light it almost feels empty. iirc the specs on the plug say it outputs 9v at 300ma, would that amperage be too low causing the drop out. On an unrelated note I just picked up a va0 Genesis 2 to test my model 1 CD with, but I'm afraid to hook the CD up with my sketchy power source. I'm hoping I can find one soon locally.
    Last edited by Madness Hero; 07-01-2019 at 02:52 PM.
    "Keep your friends close but get your enemies toaster."

  8. #2153
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingNameless One pyroesp's Avatar
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    Looking at this https://en.retrogamesupply.com/produ...rive-genesis-1 , the original power supply is 9 to 10V and capable of delivering 1.2A.
    Your power supply is not good enough.

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    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingSports Talker Madness Hero's Avatar
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    In the words of Hubert Farnsworth "Good news everyone", VA 6 and VA 2 are working!!!
    I made a new power supply from a Nintendo Wii power brick and both systems turn on and run great. However, VA 6 still has a minor issue... the led is still fading out. It will come on as soon as I turn on the system but it quickly fades out and if I switch off the system and flip it back on it stays off, but if I leave it off for a few minutes it comes back on when powered up, but again will fade out. I checked continuity between the legs but they aren't shorted. No idea what to check next.

    Edited: I found the issue while probing voltage (after a long session of probing for shorts >.<) And quickly found that the 120 ohm smd resistor right in line behind the led has failed. Not sure that anyone else has had this issue but I hope if they do this can be of assistance. Wasn't expecting to find that failed. Anyway a big thanks to pyroesp and Raijin Z for their support.
    Last edited by Madness Hero; 07-05-2019 at 04:39 AM.
    "Keep your friends close but get your enemies toaster."

  10. #2155
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    Hello all! Bought a Nomad ages ago and I've decided to replace the LCD with a new one that can handle an RGB signal (using NX Labs LCDDRV controller board). I was curious if anyone could tell me if there would be any difference between drawing the video signal directly from the Nomad's CXA1645 encoder vs. getting it from the A/V out? I've seen it done both ways and I'm not sure if it makes any difference, so I figured I'd ask here before I start soldering away. Thanks!

  11. #2156
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    Default Wish I had an answer for you.

    Gonna be honest I've never touched a nomad period. But logic tells me if there are any components (like a resistor or capacitor for instance) in line after the cxa there may be a difference in where u hook up depending on the output voltage and the voltage required for ur display. Aside from that I would assume it's a preference of ease of wiring, ease of reassembly, and perhaps board noise. I'm sorry I can't be of better assistance and I hope this helps u in some capacity. Just wanted to let you know ur not alone on this forum.
    "Keep your friends close but get your enemies toaster."

  12. #2157
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    Someone on this forum who did the mod actually PM'd not too long ago!: apparently the signal is a bit stronger if pulled from the A/V connector pins. Not sure if it's related to your suggestion, my knowledge of electricity is unfortunately a bit weak. But thank you for the heads-up!

    Now all I wanna do is see if I can preserve the function of the stock brightness wheel, but if I'm not mistaken, it controls the stock backlight assembly directly, so rewiring it to a new board might also be beyond my know-how.

  13. #2158
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingSports Talker Madness Hero's Avatar
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    I'm not an expert by any means nor do I have any knowledge of LCDs but if the backlight is powered separately I would assume that would be fairly simple to add that roller in line on the positive voltage between where you're pulling power from and the LCDs back light wiring, but that's purely speculation. I'm sure somebody on this forum could tell you whether or not it's doable cuz a lot of retro buffs like to keep full functionality. Good luck in your quest buddy my next mission is to get my Sega CD model one running. May the spirit of the Segata Sanshiro guide us lol.
    Last edited by Madness Hero; 07-12-2019 at 02:41 PM.
    "Keep your friends close but get your enemies toaster."

  14. #2159
    The Curly Bard Wildside Expert CurlyPaul's Avatar
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    I've got an MD PAL VA1.8 here that's only outputting white noise on the audio channel. I can solder, but not good at diagnosing, could anyone point me in the right direction please?

  15. #2160
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    U could try checking volatge at ur caps to see if any have failed
    "Keep your friends close but get your enemies toaster."

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