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Thread: A younger me violated a Genesis with bad soldering and mods. I want to make it right.

  1. #1

    Default A younger me violated a Genesis with bad soldering and mods. I want to make it right.

    So about 7 years ago, when I first found out that console modding was even a thing... I got it in my head to modify a Model 1 Genesis and a 32X for S-video output. I didn't have the talent to do it or the judgement to know better.

    Lots of solder pads ripped off while re-capping. Not a functional problem, but a sign of things to come.
    https://imgur.com/fNj7Gok

    I don't even remember what was wrong with this trace, but I dropped a blob of solder over the damaged part.
    https://imgur.com/JCoPwDM

    I dropped in a 12Mhz 68000 while I was at it. Seemed like a good idea...
    https://imgur.com/lkv85Oa

    ... until I completely ripped up this trace while removing the old CPU. Dammit younger me, slow down!
    https://imgur.com/BWgyxOX

    Well, at least I can bypass that.
    https://imgur.com/DqQ5HWh

    There was an electrolytic capacitor here, but I don't know the polarity anymore.
    https://imgur.com/ZY7IGmK

    Yeah, this is just... I was thinking I'd put in a model 2 jack here. Younger me was STUPID. Already removed the jack.
    https://imgur.com/FI6wafL

    This poor 32X got it even worse, I burned off the solder pads for C77. Anyone have the spec for that cap?
    https://imgur.com/Y65QU4Q

    And I'm going to have to replace this poor diode too.
    https://imgur.com/twJxNMH

  2. #2
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    Good luck with that. I wish I could undo all my stupid experiments myself...

    You can use a multimeter set to continuity check to find out what polarity that cap pad is. Put one lead to ground (one of the pads which come into contact with the metal shielding is fine) and touch the other lead to either hole. If one of those sides causes the multimeter to beep or buzz with constant tone, that's the ground (-) hole. Note that depending on the circuit, you might not get any continuity check from either pad. If that's the case... just use a bipolar

    If the 68000 that's in there works, I'd leave it in there. No sense in further aggravating any damaged vias or traces.
    Last edited by Eep386; 12-05-2017 at 02:57 PM.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eep386 View Post
    If the 68000 that's in there works, I'd leave it in there. No sense in further aggravating any damaged vias or traces.
    I definitely intend to leave it, it's just a faster-clocked 68000. Interestingly, segaretro.org says that the VA3 board revision was supposed to have a Motorola CPU, not the second-sourced Signetics that was in mine. Must have been an early VA3 and they had a stock of Signetics chips to burn through.

    Thanks for the multimeter tip! Very little chance I could find a nonpolar to replace that cap, it's 220uf and they just don't make ceramic or film in that, only tantalum or cans.

  4. #4
    Road Rasher
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    Almost every VA3 I've seen, had Signetics CPUs in them curiously. Only one (made in Japan) had a Motorola to my memory.

    You can try a bipolar 220uF aluminum electrolytic: https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...078-ND/2539557

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eep386 View Post
    You can try a bipolar 220uF aluminum electrolytic[/URL]
    Man, things I didn't know were things...

  6. #6
    Nonconformist Hedgehog-in-TrainingOutrunner EyeDeeNo76's Avatar
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    Younger you was... seven years ago?

    It pains to see any modifications done to a video game console.

    Edit: How long did you use it before you decided to violate it?
    Last edited by EyeDeeNo76; 12-07-2017 at 12:41 PM.

  7. #7
    Video Game Modder Road Rasher segasonicfan's Avatar
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    oh man, brings me back to my console-murdering days (before things went loco-expensive).
    One day I LEVELED UP and was able to go back and fix some 10++ systems I broke worse, repairing both my mistakes and the problems they had before. I felt like:



    Here's to you doing the same! Keep on it.

    -Segasonicfan

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