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Thread: Region / Frequency Switch - What gauge wire?

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    Outrunner 0x15e's Avatar
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    Default Region / Frequency Switch - What gauge wire?

    Ok, I decided I'd try putting region and frequency switches on my pseudo-JAMMA Genesis.

    On my first attempt, I tried using the usual tiny 30 gauge wire wrap wire I do for some mods just because it was convenient ... and was a bit surprised to see it start glowing red and melting off all the insulation. It didn't hurt anything, and the Genesis still works (and even worked with all the red-hot wires), but I'm still not completely sure if it was some bad wiring of mine or if those wires actually should be carrying that kind of current.

    Any ideas?

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    Master of Shinobi omp's Avatar
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    Jebus I would dare say something is shorted for it to do that! I use hook up wire (0.12mm) and it works fine. You could even get away with scrap cat5 wire or something. Did you cut the track between the JP spots properly?

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    Mastering your Systems Hero of Algol TmEE's Avatar
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    The thinnest the wire is the better. The one used in ATA66+ cables is really sweet
    And it seems you forgot to cut the track as Omp mentioned.
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    Outrunner 0x15e's Avatar
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    Yep, that must be it.

    Can you direct me to a good guide for doing this to a model 1? The one I went by had all kinds of diagrams and directions on where to connect wires (basically a mod guide for dummies, I couldn't find anything more technical) but nothing on what was actually going on and I'm pretty sure it was lacking the part about cutting any traces. It made me nervous because I like to know what I'm doing, rather than just be directed through a bunch of steps.

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    Contra HC super fan! Wildside Expert Afcs46's Avatar
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    try www.mmmonkey.co.uk .They have good tutorials.


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    Outrunner 0x15e's Avatar
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    That's the one I was following. I guess I missed:
    On a PAL Megadrive the middle two are linked up, using a sharp knife to cut the links (mmmonkey makes 2 cuts very close to each other, then picks the link between the 2 cuts out).
    Probably because mine's NTSC and I ignored that sentence.
    I'll have another crack at it tonight.

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    Outrunner KillerBean2's Avatar
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    I have made these two pics. They show how the jumpers are connected on the motherboard and how you can short them in order to get different region settings




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    Outrunner 0x15e's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KillerBean2 View Post
    I have made these two pics. They show how the jumpers are connected on the motherboard and how you can short them in order to get different region settings
    Oh sweet, now that's what I've been looking for. Thanks!

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    Master of Shinobi omp's Avatar
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    Yes I was following the monkey one today in regards to the original MD (the with the high definition blah blah on the top). The footnote instructions for this model on the website are a little off (the rest is very, very good and at least he has put it up so I am NOT complaining in any form, can't have my hand held all the time). It didn't make sense to me, luckily I did a bit of probing with the ol' multimeter and had it sorted easily after that.

    It says to run JP1 and JP4 to the top of the switch, JP2 and JP3 to the bottom of the switch and the other 2 to the middle.

    Problem being with the one I was doing (model 1600-03) JP1 & JP2 are joined (same point), JP3 & JP4 are joined.

    The order mine went from top to bottom JP1, JP2, JP4, JP3 for the region/50-60Hz part. The pins/pads opposite this (where you have to cut the 2 tracks) in the same order as above Ground, +5v, +5v, Ground.

    So

    Ground, JP1
    +5v, JP2 (These are the Region)

    +5v, JP4
    Ground, JP3 (These are the 50/60Hz)

    So I ran JP2 to the middle (JP1 had the cap) of the region switch
    Ran JP3 to the middle of the 50/60Hz switch

    Opposite of JP2 (+5v) to the top of the switch then link that to the other top of the switch for power for that one.

    Opposite of JP3 (Ground - again opposite of JP1 had the cap) to the bottom of the switch, linked that to the bottom of the other switch for its ground.

    I use a pin vice with a (about) 1.5mm drill bit to well and truly break the track. Using a knife if you slip (whoops).........

    Sorry for the long post here, just thought of the topic this morning when I ran into the little drama.

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    Outrunner 0x15e's Avatar
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    I started on this last night but got distracted and didn't finish. On mine, I had tracks to cut on JP2 and JP4 (NTSC / Export).

    I find it really odd that they'd go to the trouble of having a universal-type jumper system for reconfiguring regions but then hardwire them during board manufacturing for the specific regions. Why would they do that? Wouldn't it have just been cheaper to make all the boards universal (with no region info) and then put a jumper wire in the right place after the fact (similar to what SNK did with the Neo Geo CD)?

    Anyway, my tracks are cut and the solder holes are all cleaned out. I'll have some time to finish this tonight.

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    Outrunner KillerBean2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0x15e View Post
    I find it really odd that they'd go to the trouble of having a universal-type jumper system for reconfiguring regions but then hardwire them during board manufacturing for the specific regions. Why would they do that?
    The MD2 motherboard is even stranger. JP3 & JP4 are still present, but for some weird reason Sega decided not to use them anyway. They just made a trace elsewhere on the board. It makes absolutely no sense

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