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Thread: Game Gear turns off after 1 second

  1. #1
    Road Rasher
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    Game Gear Game Gear turns off after 1 second

    Hi all, got a Game Gear here that turns off after 1 second.

    I replaced all the capacitors, no change.

    Ive done lots of these, never seen this before when capacitors are replaced. Tried two different power supply boards, no change. Batteries or power supply, no change.

    Its a 2 ASIC model, still has original fluro backlight. Im not sure if the backlight can be the cause or not, it comes on until the whole unit shuts off.

    In the place of the 68uF capacitor i put a 100uF, but ive always done that and its never been an issue before. All others i replace with correct sizes.

  2. #2
    Gumbious Priest Road Rasher Raja's Avatar
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    Ever test it with a multimeter to make sure everything is getting consistent power? Maybe there is a gap somewhere thats causing the issue

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    Road Rasher
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    Not sure what you mean.

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    Road Rasher
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    Removed the HV parts and it now works fine. Question is will it still work after i put a new model LCD in it!

    Removed the fluro and put iPhone torch in through the hole, played it for about 10 minutes without a hitch.

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    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingWildside Expert POLYGAMe's Avatar
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    Is it easy for a novice to replace caps? My GG no work

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    Road Rasher
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    I dont reckon its a hard job, but im not really the person to give you that advice either. Ive got a fair bit of experience so its hard for me to gauge how someone with limited experience is going to handle this job.

    Ultimately, there is loads of mis-information about soldering methods posted on the internet, and you should be careful what advice you take. Many times ive seen comments like "use a low wattage iron with a lower temp" etc etc, but that is questionable advice at best.

    I use a reasonably powerful iron for a few reasons, its better temp controlled, the higher the wattage means itll hold temperature far better, which is essential for quality work. Use of low wattage irons is bad, they lose temp very quickly and take a longer time to recover, which means considerably slower work, transfering far more heat into the surrounding components. Thats bad. You want that solder melted very quickly, which results in a nice smooth finish if done right.

    Soldering a capacitor in place at 350-400C with a high powered iron takes less than a second on each contact point, the new solder melts instantly and feeds in nice and smooth. Using a low powered iron could take 5 seconds or more to even melt the solder, you need the heat transfered to the copper pad before the solder will adhere, and all the while youre transfering that heat through everything else in the local area for a hell of a lot longer, and at the same time getting a shit finish.

    Practice on a circuit board you dont want to ever use again, use a quality solder sucker and practice removal of DIP chips, capacitors, inductors, etc, then solder them back in. Trying this with a poxy 15w iron will show you very quickly just how untidy and difficult it is. Chances are you will have no success with any leg that connects to any reasonably large copper surface, such as the common pins on chips that connect to a large common plane. Do the same with a 45w temp adjustable iron and youll see it happens very quick and easy.

    Use the correct solder for the job. You want 60/40 lead/tin with rosin core, and you want 0.7mm or 1mm at the most, i always use 0.7mm.

    When soldering components in, set them in place, touch the iron to the point you want the solder to stick, and feed the solder in. Itll happen quick, and it should be very nice and smooth.

    Removal of components can be tricky, especially if there is lead free solder on there. If the solder doesnt melt almost instantly or its dirty, oily, coated with electrolyte etc, itll be very hard to melt. Touch the iron to the solder, then feed in a small amount of fresh solder which will cause the old solder to melt with it.

    Practice practice and more practice!! Try to find something you can practice on, a board out of a dead plasma TV is a reasonable place to start, but also try to find something a bit older too, youll soon see what method works well, and as your confidence improves you can try things like lifting legs on surface mount chips, soldering wires to them with and without first lifting them, and in time youll be ready enough to confidently do simple mods to consoles without the fear of likely damaging them.

    If youve got any questions, im happy to help where i can

  7. #7
    Road Rasher
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    Quote Originally Posted by POLYGAMe View Post
    Is it easy for a novice to replace caps? My GG no work

    The fact youre in New Zealand might help too, if you get really stuck and just dont feel you have the confidence, we may be able to work something out. Ive got 7 Game Gears here, if yours has value specifically to you i could look at repairing it for you, or i could take yours and send you a repaired one in simular condition. I dont tend to have a lot of spare time though, so it wont always be a quick turn around either.

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    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training Eidolon's Avatar
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    Hello all,

    I have just done a capacitor replacement of my Game Gear (VA1 Twin Asic) using a Console5 cap kit.

    My GG now also turns off after 1-2 seconds, and I would appreciate help in diagnosing the problem - I am at at a loss at the moment.

    - I have visually inspected and measured that the replaced capacitors are inserted correctly and do not have a short in their pins
    - I have tried different games, the problem persists. For some quick-startup games, I can briefly see the Sega logo before the screen turns off.
    - the AC adapter is ok, and the same problem also persists even when I insert batteries instead.

    What could be the cause of such problem? Measuring stuff is hard, because the GG always needs be half-assembled to turn it on, which makes measuring difficult with AC attached and game inserted.

    Thanks in advance for help!

  9. #9
    Road Rasher
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    Did you clean up the board when you did the job? There is probably still electrolyte on the board.

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    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training Eidolon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CasetheCorvetteman View Post
    Did you clean up the board when you did the job? There is probably still electrolyte on the board.
    Yes I did. No visible or measurable remains.
    Guess I just wrecked my GG, unless anyone else has some other idea I could follow up on. :-(

  11. #11
    Road Rasher
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    It may have had an issue with electrolyte damage prior to your repair.

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