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Thread: The PC Engine 6 button arcade stick

  1. #1

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    Default The PC Engine 6 button arcade stick


  2. #2
    Hero of Algol
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    "You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Drakon again."

    Great stuff, man! The kind of thing that I like to see. The picture quality also looks fantastic, good job with the S-Video mod as well!

    Could you list, please, what you used for this controller mod/adapter? How much did it cost to you?

    Thanks for sharing your goodies!

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by agostinhobaroners View Post
    "You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Drakon again."

    Great stuff, man! The kind of thing that I like to see. The picture quality also looks fantastic, good job with the S-Video mod as well!

    Could you list, please, what you used for this controller mod/adapter? How much did it cost to you?

    Thanks for sharing your goodies!
    Lesse.....used hrap 2 sa in mint condition with a chewed up ps2 controller cable: 65$. SVGA cable used to straight wire the stick: free some someone. Seimitsu ls-32 used to replace the built in sanwa stick: I think 40something$ shipped. Printer cable used to build the extension cord, 2-3$. 15 pin svga ports: 25 for 13$ or something like that from ebay. Project boxes: 2$ each. Lots-o-ide wires: free from work. Avenue pad 6: 40something$ shipped (an expensive part that's why I built it so you could still use the pad normally). Zip ties: $1.20 per bag roughly. Everything else used was my soldering iron, power drill, hot glue gun, electrical tape, and a bit of know-how.

    Before people go all "dear god what a waste of a great arcade stick!!" on me I just want to mention that years ago I build adapters to use this stick on the following systems:

    snes
    nes
    sega genesis
    xbox 1
    playstation 1
    playstation 2
    computer (using a playstation to usb adapter)
    my arcade supergun

    This arcade stick is quite handy, building system adapters for this stick requires me forging a padhack out of a sacrificial controller and parts laying around.
    Last edited by Drakon; 07-31-2012 at 09:26 PM.

  4. #4
    Master of Shinobi omp's Avatar
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    So you use an original controller as the pass-through? Seems a neat idea to me, not a waste at all. Would there be enough room in the arcade stick to fit a few cut down "boards" so as not have anything external. Would a cheap way out of it is to use the 3rd party controllers as they are usually, from what I have seen use a "glob" on a board, so should be able to be cut down fairly small. I am really keen to do up a multi-use Arcade Stick as well with quality gear, but have heard it can get quite expensive. Can you buy an empty shell, where it is simply buttons and a stick with no smarts?

    I am actually looking to replace the stick in a spare Sega MD 6B with a micro-switched type, but depth is an issue. I found one that *might* work (Happ sub-miniature) but it is $60 or so from memory. I have the Japanese 3B which is micro-switched, was keen to give the 6B the same treatment.

  5. #5
    Hero of Algol
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drakon View Post
    Lesse.....used hrap 2 sa in mint condition with a chewed up ps2 controller cable: 65$. SVGA cable used to straight wire the stick: free some someone. Seimitsu ls-32 used to replace the built in sanwa stick: I think 40something$ shipped. Printer cable used to build the extension cord, 2-3$. 15 pin svga ports: 25 for 13$ or something like that from ebay. Project boxes: 2$ each. Lots-o-ide wires: free from work. Avenue pad 6: 40something$ shipped (an expensive part that's why I built it so you could still use the pad normally). Zip ties: $1.20 per bag roughly. Everything else used was my soldering iron, power drill, hot glue gun, electrical tape, and a bit of know-how.

    Before people go all "dear god what a waste of a great arcade stick!!" on me I just want to mention that years ago I build adapters to use this stick on the following systems:

    snes
    nes
    sega genesis
    xbox 1
    playstation 1
    playstation 2
    computer (using a playstation to usb adapter)
    my arcade supergun

    This arcade stick is quite handy, building system adapters for this stick requires me forging a padhack out of a sacrificial controller and parts laying around.
    Thanks a lot for the full list and info.
    Like omp said, it's not a waste at all.
    Anyway, my concept of enthusiastic is exactly what you do while others think that it has something to do with spending hundreds of dollars in "OMGZ RAREZ" games on eBay.

    Once again, thanks a lot for sharing your stuff!

  6. #6
    Hero of Algol
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    Quote Originally Posted by omp View Post
    I am actually looking to replace the stick in a spare Sega MD 6B with a micro-switched type, but depth is an issue. I found one that *might* work (Happ sub-miniature) but it is $60 or so from memory. I have the Japanese 3B which is micro-switched, was keen to give the 6B the same treatment.
    It sucks that only the Japanese Sega sticks used microswitches. Sega should be ashamed!

    If you're not looking for professional stuff but only OK/good microswitch mechanism, why you don't try to replace the 6B one with the one used in those Compact PS1 Arcade Sticks from Hori? They usually go for something around $20 on eBay. I have one and it works pretty well, just like my Japanese Sega 6B, so I think that it could do the trick for you (mine is like the last one):



  7. #7
    Master of Shinobi omp's Avatar
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    Hmm looks interesting, thank you for that. Is the depth around 25mm or so? Thanks again

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    Quote Originally Posted by omp View Post
    So you use an original controller as the pass-through? Seems a neat idea to me, not a waste at all. Would there be enough room in the arcade stick to fit a few cut down "boards" so as not have anything external. Would a cheap way out of it is to use the 3rd party controllers as they are usually, from what I have seen use a "glob" on a board, so should be able to be cut down fairly small. I am really keen to do up a multi-use Arcade Stick as well with quality gear, but have heard it can get quite expensive. Can you buy an empty shell, where it is simply buttons and a stick with no smarts?

    I am actually looking to replace the stick in a spare Sega MD 6B with a micro-switched type, but depth is an issue. I found one that *might* work (Happ sub-miniature) but it is $60 or so from memory. I have the Japanese 3B which is micro-switched, was keen to give the 6B the same treatment.
    That's what I tried at first but then you'd have 10 cords coming out of one stick. Also the pcbs actually interfere with each other and cause each other not to work right. There may be a way to make it work but this way just seemed safer and a better long term solution. I got this stick on the cheap from a friend (well we were friends at the time) and just gutted the original wiring then straight wired the whole thing.

    I built this pc engine 6 button padhack in about 2 hours so really it's no trouble building an adapter for this stick.

    Quote Originally Posted by agostinhobaroners View Post
    Thanks a lot for the full list and info.
    Like omp said, it's not a waste at all.
    Anyway, my concept of enthusiastic is exactly what you do while others think that it has something to do with spending hundreds of dollars in "OMGZ RAREZ" games on eBay.

    Once again, thanks a lot for sharing your stuff!
    Haha yeah that's my whole approach. I like buying 40$ consoles / sticks, parts that cost around 2$ each, and building awesome stuff. It's amazing what you can pull off thinking a bit outside of the box.

    Also dayum...you beat my record for uber sized project box used for making a padhack! Did you use a comm port as your plug? I found the svga 15 pin mini plug perfect because it has 15 pins (perfect number of pins for 8 buttons, start / select, and the four directional joystick) and...well....it's mini!
    Last edited by Drakon; 08-01-2012 at 07:06 AM.

  9. #9
    Hero of Algol
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    That mod isn't mine. You can trace the source by using the link of the image.

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    Oh okay, it's not bad just using wayyyy bigger parts than necessary.

  11. #11

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    Version 3:








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