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Thread: Sega CD systems repair thread

  1. #601
    Sports Talker ceramiclion's Avatar
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    Good evening everyone.
    I am having an issue with my Sega CD model 1. It was working fine when I last used it about 2 years ago but due to my busy schedule I had no time to use it. Today, I tried to play some Sega CD games and I just get a frozen BIOS screen with no sound or any lights turning on on the console. I then tried to the system to see if i could clean the contacts and a granite rectangle part fell off and broke. I cleaned the contacts and I still get the same result. Any ideas?

    Last edited by ceramiclion; 10-24-2016 at 12:40 AM. Reason: trying to add image

  2. #602
    WCPO Agent Helder's Avatar
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    Post an image of the part that fell off as that is more important than the frozen bios screen.

  3. #603
    Raging in the Streets xelement5x's Avatar
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    I am guessing it was like the ferrite block that goes on the ribbon?
    Quote Originally Posted by StarMist View Post
    A spine card is the hymen of a new game assuring its first owner that he is truly her one and only, and of a used game assuring its new owner that whilst she has been played with in the past that play has never been too careless or thorough.

  4. #604
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    It's been a very long time, but I finally decided to start repairing the huge pile of Jp MCD1 systems I've had lying around for the past 2-3 years. I bought some cheap Chinese lasers as I could not afford the real deal a couple of weeks back. The lasers look like crap and the little metal bit around the heads (which is gold on the SONY lasers) are scratched up and rusted. A common problem with the Chinese crap, it seems.

    To my huge surprise, after going through the annoying process of changing the laser, it worked! Reading both originals and Taiyo Yuden back ups of my originals. The problem is, it stopped working and instead started freezing on the BIOS screen with music if a disc was in the tray. It drove me nuts all day, it would work again, I would put it back together and it would freeze again.

    After hours of this, I scrubbed the MCD connector with an alcohol soaked toothbrush and it worked again. Then it froze again. So I scrubbed it again but also cleaned the MD connector as well. The MD board was FILTHY and tge cotton buds were covered in black filth. I then cleaned the MCD again to remove anything the MD may have deposited, and it appeared to work again. At that point it was time to put the shit away as it had driven me bonkers! So I am yet to test again to see if it is still working or not. Does this "freezing with disc inserted" sound like something that could be caused by dirty connectors on one or both ends? The MD in question is hooked up to my main "playing" Jp MCD1 and 32X and has never had a problem with that system. I will try it out after work tomorrow if I can be bothered, if not the weekend to see if things have improved.

  5. #605
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training supersega's Avatar
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    Hi there everyone! Wondered if y'all could help a brother out here, lol. I bought an as-is Japanese Mega CD model 1 I bought for cheap. Was told it'd need a fuse by the seller, and the old fuse had no continuity but alas, I soldered in a new glass fuse and fuse holder and its still doing the same thing; turn on with a black screen, and if I press "Reset" then the screen will either go to white (most common,) stay on black, or go to a red screen (rarest, only happened once.) Sometimes the front lights flash too, but not often (maybe 1/10 times?). I have tried it on my region modded Genesis 1 and my normal Genesis 2 with the same results for both units, and my Genesis 1 worked great with my Sega CD Model 1 I had 5 or so years ago. Anyone have an idea? I was thinking about replacing caps, but that's a lot of work if it won't do anything according to you guys. So far, I have done...

    -Replacing the fuse (as said)
    -Cleaning all PCBs.
    -Test all the fuses on power board (all have <.001 continuity.)

    Aaaand that's it. I'll make a video as well if needed. Thanks in advance guys!

  6. #606
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    REPLACE THOSE CAPS! Before the board is completely destroyed. Just focus on the main board where the connector is, and don't forget the 3 caps on tge connector board. In fact, if it is a model with the daughter board connected to the connector board, check the wires going into the board. They are not very well soldered and could be loose. That could screw up things for you right there.

    Main thing though, replace the caps. You can easily add a region free BIOS chip as well, seeing as the Jp MCD1 has a socket. Unless it is one of the very last model 1 systems that were soldered and had no daughter board. Out of the 24 systems I own, I only have one of those.

  7. #607
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training supersega's Avatar
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    Lol, yeah, you're probably right. Is the cap list on the Wiki pretty close for all model 1s? Don't wanna pull apart my Mega CD tonight, yet I want to order caps tonight so they get here at the end of exam week. For the wires on the daughter board, will do. It did look a bit sketch, not gonna lie. For the region free BIOS, got a link? I'll buy a chip programmer while I'm at it, probably will come in handy later for BIOS flashing on PC crap. Even have a puller for BIOS chips, so no problem there.

    Thanks man, you are a massive help. +rep for sure.

  8. #608
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    The cap list for the main board is pretty standard in my experience. You can use the one in this very thread! Because of SEGA's love of releasing things in their domestic market unfinished, there can be a few slight differences in Jp MCD1 systems. The main board is the same as the Omp's list in this thread in all systems. The connector board in Jp systems do also have some caps absent in SEGA-CD and PAL MCD1 systems. Most common is 2 10uf 16v caps along with a 47uf 16v cap. It may be 47uf 10v, I will check for you tommorrow as I plan on recapping a working system tomorrow. The connector board can sadly get eaten by cap fluid as well, so it is important to replace those, too. It really is quite easy to do!

    Once you have the caps removed, the board will need a good cleaning with alcohol and cotton buds as well as some contact cleaner. Expect loads of erosion and a nasty smell, yuck. Hopefully the board is not damaged for you. I have a launch system thst according to the manyal was purchased a week after launch date. Sadly, it seems to be quite damaged by the leaking caps and shows a distorted MCD logo. I recapped it, but it did not change I need to tackle that one again and check tye solder on the pins and traces. I would love to bring it back to life.

    As for the region free BIOS files, you should be able to find them on this site. The specs of the chip needed to burn the BIOS to escapes me at the moment. I personally ordered the chips from a Chinese seller on eBay. I sent the BIOS file to them, they programmed the chips and sent them to me. I used the Jp version 1.0 BIOS as I love the original MCD BIOS screen (and MCD logo), but you can also use a SEGA CD model 1 BIOS which means you can open the tray with the controller. Something the JP BIOS lacks. I dislike the SEGA CD BIOS and think the music sucks compared to the Jp original/PAL version. Typical of the arrogance of SEGA America.

  9. #609
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training supersega's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SegaSonic91 View Post
    The cap list for the main board is pretty standard in my experience. You can use the one in this very thread! Because of SEGA's love of releasing things in their domestic market unfinished, there can be a few slight differences in Jp MCD1 systems. The main board is the same as the Omp's list in this thread in all systems. The connector board in Jp systems do also have some caps absent in SEGA-CD and PAL MCD1 systems. Most common is 2 10uf 16v caps along with a 47uf 16v cap. It may be 47uf 10v, I will check for you tommorrow as I plan on recapping a working system tomorrow. The connector board can sadly get eaten by cap fluid as well, so it is important to replace those, too. It really is quite easy to do!

    Once you have the caps removed, the board will need a good cleaning with alcohol and cotton buds as well as some contact cleaner. Expect loads of erosion and a nasty smell, yuck. Hopefully the board is not damaged for you. I have a launch system thst according to the manyal was purchased a week after launch date. Sadly, it seems to be quite damaged by the leaking caps and shows a distorted MCD logo. I recapped it, but it did not change I need to tackle that one again and check tye solder on the pins and traces. I would love to bring it back to life.

    As for the region free BIOS files, you should be able to find them on this site. The specs of the chip needed to burn the BIOS to escapes me at the moment. I personally ordered the chips from a Chinese seller on eBay. I sent the BIOS file to them, they programmed the chips and sent them to me. I used the Jp version 1.0 BIOS as I love the original MCD BIOS screen (and MCD logo), but you can also use a SEGA CD model 1 BIOS which means you can open the tray with the controller. Something the JP BIOS lacks. I dislike the SEGA CD BIOS and think the music sucks compared to the Jp original/PAL version. Typical of the arrogance of SEGA America.
    Very good! I ended up just popping it apart and counting up all the caps. Got 2 extras of everything just in case, lol. For the cleaning, I'll go to town with it. What do you suggest using first, the alcohol or the contact cleaner? And no smell scares me, I one time cleaned up a board from a PS1 that had some sorta urine and some bugs in it... ew for sure! But the board does not look like it has any leaking caps anywhere, so we good there.

    Sucks to hear about that 1 MCD. If you some how cannot get it to work, hit me up, I want that power board if mine won't work after the re-capping. XD. Alright, so I will for sure do that, but I am just gonna get the programmer myself, I feel like I'll need one in the future. Also in agreement with the JP vs. US music for sure! It's the only reason I bought an X'Eye and this Mega CD, Sega USA took all the cool out of the BIOSes. Sadly, you are the first person I have ever met who agrees with me. Congrats! Lol.

    So you are PRETTY sure this'll fix it? I hope it does. If not, I'll do a heat gun reflow because why not. Thanks again!
    Last edited by supersega; 12-09-2016 at 09:31 PM.

  10. #610
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training supersega's Avatar
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    Took some pics. Let me know if you need specifics of anything.

    Also, I wasn't getting anything but .185V from the VRM on the heatsink when it was just plugged into the adaptor with no load or connected to anything but the power plug. Diode puts through 13.82V and same with the transistor.

    http://imgur.com/a/HEae7

    EDIT!! Upon further examination of the mainboard... we have a problem I can't handle. Looks like water damage as well as leaky caps on the mainboard. Oh well, anyone want to sell a mainboard or know a guy who can fix one? PSU all tests good from what I can tell, maybe needing an LM7805 and TR4 but it might just be my bad multimeter "skills."

    Either way, this console sucks.

    http://imgur.com/a/HxVRs
    Last edited by supersega; 12-10-2016 at 01:49 AM.

  11. #611
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    Bummer about the water damage! Sorry to hear that. It's a damn shame because apart from C42, the caps do not look too bad. C42 always seems to be bad.

    I had huge disappointment with the system I recapped today, too. After capping, I discovered huge problems with the cd drive. Very similar to Omp's SEGA CD in back on page 9, the thing is busted and broken in multiple places. It looks like some hack in Japan had a go fixing it though as there is super glue all over the place. There was also some hot glue but it came apart with little effort. I tried hot glueing things back in to place, but the laser assembly will still not raise. It keeps slipping out of the helix screw. I will have to have a look at it tomorrow to see if the screw is broken at all. I will try a hot glue fix like Omp if it is!

    I should have stuck to doing the working system as I'd planned, grrr.

    I suppose it is a moot point now, but I would recommend cleaning first with alcohhol, then contact cleaner followed by another go with the alcohol to remove any residue.

  12. #612
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training supersega's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SegaSonic91 View Post
    Bummer about the water damage! Sorry to hear that. It's a damn shame because apart from C42, the caps do not look too bad. C42 always seems to be bad.

    I had huge disappointment with the system I recapped today, too. After capping, I discovered huge problems with the cd drive. Very similar to Omp's SEGA CD in back on page 9, the thing is busted and broken in multiple places. It looks like some hack in Japan had a go fixing it though as there is super glue all over the place. There was also some hot glue but it came apart with little effort. I tried hot glueing things back in to place, but the laser assembly will still not raise. It keeps slipping out of the helix screw. I will have to have a look at it tomorrow to see if the screw is broken at all. I will try a hot glue fix like Omp if it is!

    I should have stuck to doing the working system as I'd planned, grrr.

    I suppose it is a moot point now, but I would recommend cleaning first with alcohhol, then contact cleaner followed by another go with the alcohol to remove any residue.
    Yeah, its safe to say this unit has seen the end of its days. Was told that all it would take was some white vinegar, some reflowing, and cap replacement, but I highly doubt it because the oxidation is really bad.

    Dang, that sucks for you though. If that fix doesn't work, let me know. I might have a parts source for you if I can't sell this thing to someone who thinks they can fix it... Lol.

  13. #613
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training supersega's Avatar
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    Well, power board caps arrived. I'm probably just gonna replace them for fun because I need through hole soldering practice. And if it works? Cool! If not? The mainboard goes off to a friend of mine to be cleaned and recapped. He calls it easy, and I doubt he knows what he's gonna get into... but oh well! Lol.

  14. #614
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training supersega's Avatar
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    Exams over. Time to warm up the iron.

  15. #615
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    And that came to a screeching halt fast.

    http://imgur.com/a/1o2xk

    No option but to buy a new board and use this as a learning experience. :/

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