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Thread: Sega CD systems repair thread

  1. #751
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingWildside Expert majinga's Avatar
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    Personally, i would only replace the fuse and tr4. And check the tracks around tr4. Then i would Probably power it by my bech psu, to limit the current, just in case.

    If there are no shorts, but it didn't turn on, i would check the voltages around, to see if everyting is powered correctly.

    The recap is the last thing.

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    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingNameless One pyroesp's Avatar
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    I suggest getting one of those cheap component testers for max 15$ on ebay / aliexpress.
    They do BJT, FET, MOSFET, diodes, caps, res, ind,... it can basically measure everything except ICs.

    There's different models, but they mostly look like this : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000159978324.html

  3. #753
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingWildside Expert majinga's Avatar
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    I have one of those. They are really handy, but they are not so accurate especially in things like the esr. So you can't rely on it ti check if a capacitor Is good or not.
    And, again, once you desoldered it, just replace it.

  4. #754
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    Yes but then you need to dismantle every capacitator to test if it works or not no? Then you can better recap it.

    @majinga thanks i'll do that first.

    Any idea how i check the voltages with a multimeter? I guess the unit has to be on then?

  5. #755
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingWildside Expert majinga's Avatar
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    You can test the capacitors in circuit, only if you are sure they are not in parallel with other capacitors.

    For the voltage, unfortunately yes. The MCD1 Is not easy to diagnose

  6. #756
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    Quote Originally Posted by majinga View Post
    I have one of those. They are really handy, but they are not so accurate especially in things like the esr. So you can't rely on it ti check if a capacitor Is good or not.
    And, again, once you desoldered it, just replace it.
    I'm going to disagree with you on that. It's certainly not a professional, calibrated tool, but for the application it's used in it's more than enough.

    If a cap measures 100Ohm ESR, I bet you it's probably bad.
    If the cap says it's 220uF and it measure 150uF... same deal.


    On another note, I find it pointless to replace perfectly good caps just because it's easier or takes less time than measuring it.

    If the plan is troubleshooting something failing, then troubleshoot and replace bad parts.
    If the plan is to do a whole recap, then just do that to begin with. There are tons of kits out there.

  7. #757
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    Check a capacitor in circuit Is tricky, even with a professional tool. And you can't just probe them around if you don't have a clue of how they are placed in the circuit and what theyr function is.

    In a MCD1 there are not so many capacitors, and they are all almost 20 years old.
    If you are servicing it, because It have some faults, there is nothing wrong to just replace all the caps.

    Personally i prefer to open my machines as less as possibile. So, in a situation like this i prefer to do as much work as possibile.

    Sometimes even faulty capacitors can be measured as good with a tool. And get the correct capacitance in circuit is almost impossibile.

  8. #758
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    Hi,

    I have two units that won't start up.

    So i'm trying to fix that first so i could only be the fuse, the tr4 or the voltage regulator (i think).

    I have no idea if any caps are bad/dead but i would first replace these 3 items and then try to power it on and see what it gives? I guess thats a good plan?

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    Hello. Recently I bought a Sega Mega CD 2 from Ebay and it has a couple of problems.

    Firstly, disks cannot be read (most likely the previous owner turned the VR401/402/403 potentiometers).

    Secondly, there is no BIOS melody, instead of it some kind of static noise.

    Do you know how to solve these problems? Thanks in advance

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvjKAsDfxAs

  10. #760
    Video Game Modder Outrunner segasonicfan's Avatar
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    First things first: can we sticky this thread? It's a goldmine of info. Special thanks to @omp for the pics and info!


    Quote Originally Posted by HotPotato View Post
    Anyone know if the 315-5660 chips area available at a reasonable price?
    I have a couple. Cheapest way is to pull from MD2s. They don't break very often though and are a pain to reflow back in. Whats your issue?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sylver View Post
    Hi guys !
    My CDX is faulty and I'd like to have some help because I'm stuck right now ...
    The problem is that when booting the CD part, I see the planet but it's not going further, nothing is moving, no Sega CD stuff, it's just stuck ... According to what I've read, it's due to some failing auto tests causing the bios to stop its execution
    The Genesis cartridge part is just working great on his side. I also tried to boot the CD player by putting 2 batteries inside and it's playing audio CDs with no issue.
    What I've done so far :
    - I replaced all capacitors on each boards -> No improvement
    - I replaced the battery soldered on the board (Z1) -> No improvement
    - I reworked solders from 315-5860 and 315-5632 using flux and fresh solder -> No improvement
    - I checked for continuity for each pins that connects main board and CD board to make sure that each board are connected together as expected ...
    - I tried to boot CDX bios using an Everdrive, I got the same result : CD screen stuck at the beginning !

    So I'm stuck right now, is there something I should check first now ? Is there a king of debug bios allowing to had clue on what part of the bios boot process is failing ?
    I have a multimeter and an oscilloscope, but I really don't know what to start with now ...
    Thanks for your help, I'm dying to make this CDX to work, I was so happy to get one, but repairing it is turning into a nightmare
    Do you see planet but no text / music? That means your mainboard is booting the SCD BIOS but the SCD ASIC is not interfacing with the CD board or CD 68K. Look for corroded or damaged traces. Use a microscope if you have access to one and be prepared to spend some time looking over the whole board. Specifially check 68K to the 315-5632 data and address pins.
    Caps are not the first thing to replace in Sega CDXs. Its a shame that cap replacing is the go-to for all symptoms. I usually start elsewhere.

    Quote Originally Posted by roce View Post
    The 10.1 video is unavailable, and I couldn't find any pics anywhere either. Anybody have pics of how to align the big black gear?
    The one on top of the helix? the trick is to place it gently (dont ever force anyting) and make sure it engages the switch underneath it when turned fully counter clockwise. I can supply pics if you need.

    Quote Originally Posted by demonseed View Post
    Attachment 15295Well I looked it up and tried the hot glue gun fix on the helix screw. It looks ok. I am still not seeing the silver CD spindle go up and down when I turn the gear. Does the helix screw have something to do with that? Not sure why. IF I turn the Helix screw it moves the spindle and laser up however when I turned the black gear it does not seem to connect to the helix gear to move it?
    Take out the black gear on top of the helix. Does helix move freely? Dont force anything. All the way counter clockwise should raise CD caddy up, its got a plastic nub that slides up a guide in the helix screw. This wont work if the pivots on the back of CD caddy are broken or missing their hold screws or plastic.

    Hope this all helps. Im planning to update my website (link below) in the near future with a MEGA REPAIR guide full of info and pics for Sega CD and CDX systems. Developed a new way to improve Model 1 Sega CD drive trays too. Stay tuned.

    -SSF
    Last edited by segasonicfan; 05-10-2020 at 11:50 AM.
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    Please don't PM me for free repair advice.
    I only offer free repair advice through public forums as a service to the community and as a repository of information.
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  11. #761

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    Hello all,

    My Mega CD mark 1 (Europe version front loader) suddenly decided not to work anymore.
    I get to the planet screen, but there's no logo nor audio. It freezes there.
    I also noticed the power supply is giving a bit of a high reading voltage wise, like 2 more V, so I discarded that now but currently have no replacement.

    Would a recap maybe fix this? Could it just be the PSU?

    Thanks in advance for any help you could provide!
    Last edited by kikendo; 05-28-2020 at 08:40 AM.

  12. #762
    Video Game Modder Outrunner segasonicfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikendo View Post
    Hello all,
    I also noticed the power supply is giving a bit of a high reading voltage wise, like 2 more V, so I discarded that now but currently have no replacement.

    Would a recap maybe fix this? Could it just be the PSU?

    Thanks in advance for any help you could provide!
    There is nothing wrong with your PSU, this is normal for old class 1 power supplies from the 80s/90s.
    Please, don't throw away vintage video game hardware this makes me sad

    Cap kits don't fix everything. See my post above.

    Planet with no text is rarely cap issue in my experience. Look for damaged traces, you likely have communication issue with SCD 68K and/or ASIC.

    Planet with no text means Genesis ASIC, 68K, vram, sram etc are fine. Its seeing the bios as well. But somethings wrong with the CD chipset communication.
    Last edited by segasonicfan; 05-10-2020 at 11:48 AM.
    My Website:
    SEGASONICFAN DESIGNS

    Please don't PM me for free repair advice.
    I only offer free repair advice through public forums as a service to the community and as a repository of information.
    If you cannot post here, I recommend these places that don't have posting restrictions:
    https://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php
    https://www.smspower.org/forums/
    https://www.obscuregamers.com/forums/

  13. #763

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    Quote Originally Posted by segasonicfan View Post
    Please, don't throw away vintage video game hardware this makes me sad
    I said "discarded", not thrown away. It's chucked away in a box

    Cap kits don't fix everything. See my post above.
    I know, I am NOT looking for a kit, I am looking for a precise description of which capacitors are SMD and which are not. Everyone online seems to have forgotten this detail.

    Planet with no text is rarely cap issue in my experience. Look for damaged traces, you likely have communication issue with SCD 68K and/or ASIC.
    How would an otherwise perfectly running Mega CD, suddenly, damage its own traces, if the PSU isn't delivering too much voltage and there's no capacitor leak? Traces don't get damaged on their own. Suspecting capacitor leakage isn't an insane thought.

    Planet with no text means Genesis ASIC, 68K, vram, sram etc are fine. Its seeing the bios as well. But somethings wrong with the CD chipset communication.
    Where do I look then? I'm not great with a schematic :/

  14. #764
    On NGC? No, DREAMCAST! ;D WCPO Agent GameX's Avatar
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    Hello all!

    Reaching out to you all today as I actually manage to break my Sega CD Model 2 and I'm so sad =( (OMG, and it's my own fault $*(&*(? x( (please don't laugh (or cry) )
    Father originally had to solder a fuse to power it on but he did fixed it haha (came from eBay)

    As of today, I was just replacing the useless RF shield in there instead of it taking useless space in my room since 2017 and while rescrew I managed to drop the optical drive (($*&$*(?*($) by a few centimeters, fell board side. The motherboard itself is fine, the optical disc that fell =( (On board side)

    Annnndd now the Sega CD disc is spinning, seems like it's forcing the disc a bit (can hear the motor spin the disc faster), then stop spinning, retry, stop and spin again... If we press start, we see "No Disc" =(( I'm so sad =( I paid it like $100 and even broken (no power) would cost me 150$ (!!!!), I imagine I could just swap the optical drive with the other but.... =( $$$ (and no guarantee)

    Is this what we need (I don't know =( Father inspected it a bit and not too sure what's actually off? The gears can move but maybe they're trying too hard or something stuck? Idk. Honnestly maybe not as when we power it on, we still still hear and see the gear grinding for 1 seconds as it was always doing normally in the past on boot) ? https://www.amazon.com/KSS-210A-KSS2...ustomerReviews

    Here's the problem on video. We can see that the lens can still move: https://www.dropbox.com/s/f6trkyqp27...93210.mp4?dl=0


    The gear doesn't seem to be broken (So small hard to see, could be), it does spin. If we rotate the gears backwards and power on the system, the gears will rotate until the lens is back on it's spot, as they should.
    If we're lucky, it's just the laser being misaligned perhaps? Could be possible that it got misaligned after the small drop?

    Whichever the outcome, I appreciate it . Be safe!! Hope for hear back from you.
    Last edited by GameX; 05-18-2020 at 12:44 PM.
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  15. #765

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    Quote Originally Posted by segasonicfan View Post
    Planet with no text means Genesis ASIC, 68K, vram, sram etc are fine. Its seeing the bios as well. But somethings wrong with the CD chipset communication.
    Can you please elaborate on what I should be looking at? I gave another inspection to the main board, there's no trace damage that I can find, but I don't really know specifically where I should be looking.

    Seems like I have a JVC board CD-ROM unit.
    Last edited by kikendo; 05-28-2020 at 09:03 AM.

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