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Thread: Sega CD systems repair thread

  1. #676
    Video Game Modder Outrunner segasonicfan's Avatar
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    I made a bunch of Sega CD model 1 repair videos to share for free. These go over some of the nitty-gritty headaches that are not well documented for tray issues with the model 1. I watched quite a few videos on YouTube and couldn't find the necessary information, so here ya go:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtXI...3IVIfeBQ9Lax7u

    Note, since I make all my videos for free (they are quite time-consuming) you will have shaky camera, no editing, etc. There are much better production-value videos on youtube with much worse technical information. I just try to focus on what's important (the knowledge, yeah!)

    -Segasonicfan
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  2. #677
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    new laser my a$$. I fixed it

  3. #678
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training Bizous's Avatar
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    Hello everyone
    I buy a Sega Mega CD1 Jap down.
    When I turn it on it show me glitch.
    http://mickael.games.free.fr/PHOTO/MEGACD1VIDEO.avi
    So I dismount the mega CD.
    And I find this pieces in the bottom of the console.

    What is this pieces ( ALPS472 ) ?
    I found this on the maintenance service ==>( 477-0005 : R-PACK 8*4.7KOHM 1/8W W/COMMON )
    I can not find the same thing or equivalent of this piece to put a new one.
    Can you help me
    thank you in advance

  4. #679
    Video Game Modder Outrunner segasonicfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bizous View Post
    Hello everyone
    I buy a Sega Mega CD1 Jap down.
    When I turn it on it show me glitch.
    http://mickael.games.free.fr/PHOTO/MEGACD1VIDEO.avi
    So I dismount the mega CD.
    And I find this pieces in the bottom of the console.

    What is this pieces ( ALPS472 ) ?
    I found this on the maintenance service ==>( 477-0005 : R-PACK 8*4.7KOHM 1/8W W/COMMON )
    I can not find the same thing or equivalent of this piece to put a new one.
    Can you help me
    thank you in advance
    Yikes, you're going to need to do a full recap and other work in addition to that part. That is simply a resistor array, very easy to replace. Its just 4x 4K7 resistors.
    My Website:
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  5. #680
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training Bizous's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by segasonicfan View Post
    Yikes, you're going to need to do a full recap and other work in addition to that part. That is simply a resistor array, very easy to replace. Its just 4x 4K7 resistors.
    Thank you for your reply Segasonicfan .

    I ordered all the capacitors to replace them. ( I am waiting for the order )

    Met I can not find this resistance ALPS 472.
    Can you show me which ones I have to buy to replace it .

    Sorry for my English

  6. #681
    Video Game Modder Outrunner segasonicfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bizous View Post
    Thank you for your reply Segasonicfan .

    I ordered all the capacitors to replace them. ( I am waiting for the order )

    Met I can not find this resistance ALPS 472.
    Can you show me which ones I have to buy to replace it .

    Sorry for my English
    Hi, no problem. I assure you my French is much worse than your English (and your English is quite good by the way!)
    that's good that you ordered the capacitors. You will also need to clean the board thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol.
    I can look up the part for you at a distributor, but I don't know which one you would use in France. here in the US we tend to use Mouser or Digikey. I think they would ship internationally but I'm not sure.

    can you take a measurement of the dimensions of the part (L x W?) that will help too.
    My Website:
    SEGASONICFAN DESIGNS

    Please don't PM me for free repair advice.
    I only offer free repair advice through public forums as a service to the community and as a repository of information.
    If you cannot post here, I recommend these places that don't have posting restrictions:
    https://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php
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  7. #682
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training Bizous's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by segasonicfan View Post
    Hi, no problem. I assure you my French is much worse than your English (and your English is quite good by the way!)
    that's good that you ordered the capacitors. You will also need to clean the board thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol.
    I can look up the part for you at a distributor, but I don't know which one you would use in France. here in the US we tend to use Mouser or Digikey. I think they would ship internationally but I'm not sure.

    can you take a measurement of the dimensions of the part (L x W?) that will help too.

    lol, thank you very much
    I train in English looking at the series in Original Version,
    Do you want to watch French series to learn French ?

    The size of the ALPS 472 parts
    Length : 6,5 Millimeter
    Width : 3,5 Millimeter
    Height : 0,5 Millimeter

    Thank you for your help

  8. #683
    Video Game Modder Outrunner segasonicfan's Avatar
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    the part is actually surprisingly difficult to source. most likely cuz it uses a larger package type than what's manufactured today. something like this would work well though if you just use half of the resistors, because it has 8 instead of 4:

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...2qMorsAV5v0%3D

    also, I took a look at the schematic and found the part that you're replacing. Its good to have for reference.:

    Screenshot_20190322-203924.jpg

    keep in mind, you're still going to have to replace all the capacitors, do a lot of cleaning with isopropyl alcohol and possibly fix traces as well.
    you can see this video I made about how to do that with the Sega Game Gear, for a proper way to do capacitor replacement and cleaning:

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fbum0CE2T7o
    Last edited by segasonicfan; 03-22-2019 at 11:45 PM.
    My Website:
    SEGASONICFAN DESIGNS

    Please don't PM me for free repair advice.
    I only offer free repair advice through public forums as a service to the community and as a repository of information.
    If you cannot post here, I recommend these places that don't have posting restrictions:
    https://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php
    https://www.smspower.org/forums/
    https://www.obscuregamers.com/forums/

  9. #684
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training Bizous's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by segasonicfan View Post
    the part is actually surprisingly difficult to source. most likely cuz it uses a larger package type than what's manufactured today. something like this would work well though if you just use half of the resistors, because it has 8 instead of 4:

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...2qMorsAV5v0%3D

    also, I took a look at the schematic and found the part that you're replacing. Its good to have for reference.:

    Screenshot_20190322-203924.jpg

    keep in mind, you're still going to have to replace all the capacitors, do a lot of cleaning with isopropyl alcohol and possibly fix traces as well.
    you can see this video I made about how to do that with the Sega Game Gear, for a proper way to do capacitor replacement and cleaning:

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fbum0CE2T7o
    Thanks for your help Segasonicfan
    As soon as I received my order, and start repairing it.
    I will give you news.
    Thanks again

  10. #685

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    Quote Originally Posted by segasonicfan View Post
    I recently repaired a CDX with similar symptoms. It looks like a VRAM issue. If you get to TMSS then your 68K and connections are likely fine. I vote that its your MSM54C864-10 (IC192) and / or shorted connection issues to it with the 315-5660. My CDX would load the sega logo and glitch out similarly. It was that chip, and a short to GND on the VRAM bus (a dead 315-5660 pin yuck).
    Thanks for the reply. I was hoping it might be the VRAM because it's difficult to source a replacement 315-5660 VDP (all of my "for parts" Genesis 2 have an annoying habit of getting fixed).

    How did you find the short to GND on the VRAM bus? I have a slightly corroded pin on the VDP from some kind of goo damage, but it's on the DMA pins and they are continuous with the 68K and not shorted with each other.

    I did a quick continuity test from all the pins of the VRAM chip to GND but didn't find anything with the machine at rest.

    The VDP is getting noticeably warmer to the touch than the other chips but I wouldn't call it "shorted hot."

  11. #686
    Video Game Modder Outrunner segasonicfan's Avatar
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    The VDP is getting noticeably warmer to the touch than the other chips but I wouldn't call it "shorted hot."
    It is very risky to be powering on a damaged system like this. The longer you leave it on the more risk you run of more shorts and damage to the ICs.

    You have a very tricky repair here. If theres no obvious VDP shorts than you have a Lot of testing to do. It's not something I could really troubleshoot online, but if you want to send it in maybe we can work something out. However, these kinds of repairs are difficult and extremely time-consuming (ie expensive).

    Honestly, if you have any sort of day job I would recommend just selling this one for parts. I might be interested in buying it from you and try to repair it in my downtime. Ive had repairs like this take 10+ hours so its hard to just offer quick advice for it.
    Last edited by segasonicfan; 05-02-2019 at 07:03 AM.
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    Please don't PM me for free repair advice.
    I only offer free repair advice through public forums as a service to the community and as a repository of information.
    If you cannot post here, I recommend these places that don't have posting restrictions:
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  12. #687
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    Does anyone know where I could find a replacement laser motor for a Sega CD model 2? It is the model with the sockets on the disc drive and not the ribbon cable. The motor is very noisy and has lots of friction when spinning.
    Check out my review channel at GameFaqs here. Then feel free to leave feedback and comment here

  13. #688
    Video Game Modder Outrunner segasonicfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vintagegamecrazy View Post
    Does anyone know where I could find a replacement laser motor for a Sega CD model 2? It is the model with the sockets on the disc drive and not the ribbon cable. The motor is very noisy and has lots of friction when spinning.
    I don't know off the top of my head, but posting a picture or model number (or both) would certainly be helpful in your quest.
    My Website:
    SEGASONICFAN DESIGNS

    Please don't PM me for free repair advice.
    I only offer free repair advice through public forums as a service to the community and as a repository of information.
    If you cannot post here, I recommend these places that don't have posting restrictions:
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  14. #689

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    I think I've found the Mega CD 2 from hell. I've still got a black screen despite my exploits below.

    When I got it, someone had ripped the bios rom out and taken some pads with it. People should be warned the boards are well insulated and absorb a lot of iron heat!

    I've burned a replacment rom and tested it in another console ok. I've added a socket and repaired all broken traces and checked continuity with IC101 and the card slot many times over.

    I've also tested and found Q301 was stuck on and keeping the mega cd powered up even when the megadrive was off. Replaced it and now it turns off when it should. Q401 also tested good.

    Got the 'scope out and probed all the bios address/data pins and all are active for a second or two then are pulled high.

    Cleaned the mega cd slot and megadrive card edge vigorously and made no difference. Tested the megadrive with another mega cd and it works fine every time.

    At this point I was happy the megadrive wasn't the issue, nor the bios or it's connections.

    All diodes seemed fine and power/resistance wasn't unusual in any spot.

    As I had a working mega cd I went ahead and sequentially swapped IC 107 (whatever ram it is), the 68000 and even IC101 between the two. Tested all connections yet again. The working mega cd still works and the non working one still doesn't so I am a little more optimistic as the most irreplaceable parts check out ok. More frustrated however that I've missed something.

    Obviously I checked F301 and it's fine. This is the model with no SMD fuses.

    The power adapter is an official one and works great with the other mega cd.

    Caps all teated the same on both consoles.

    I'm writing this here as a sanity check and really for some more ideas. Anyone else's experience would be appreciated. I'm a bit stuck now.

  15. #690
    Hero of Algol TrekkiesUnite118's Avatar
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    So I have a problem, I attempted to recap my Model 2 Sega CD which has the Funai Board and it's gone horribly wrong. First of all I had multiple caps where the pad came off when I desoldered the old Cap. I had the temp of my iron at about 275F when this happened which I didn't think was too hot for that, but when it first happened I turned it down to abut 250F and it still kept happening. So I'm not sure what happened there. In the instances it happened I checked with a flashlight to see where the traces where and made patches as best I could when necessary.

    The second issue was the recap kit I ordered from Console5 seemed to have misplaced a 47uF for a 470uF cap. So that cap I did not replace yet as I'm waiting on the 470uF caps I ordered to arrive. However that asside the system is behaving poorly. First is the drive is making a horrible clicking noise now. It appears to be because it's trying to go past it's gears when it reaches the inner most part of the disc. This doesn't appear to be limit switch related as after checking that with a Multimeter it appears to be behaving correctly with the expected Ohm readings when it's opened and closed as well as the proper voltage readings on the test points on the board. I've recorded a video of the clicking here:



    If I turn VR401 slightly counter clockwise however, I can get this clicking to stop. At that point the system will read the disc and attempt to play it but it skips horribly. My Multimeter is able to read frequencies so I did the test to check VCO. It looks to be in spec with a reading of 4.320MHz, however I noticed when it skips this reading jumps up for a split second to about 4.5MHz. I've checked all the solder points and patch areas I had to make for continuity and they appear to check out, so I'm at a loss at this point. Is my board pretty much shot at this point or is there anything I can do to try and fix it?

    EDIT:

    Nevermind, after touching up some solder points it's now in a state of not even booting. It just freezes on the planet screen with the bios version and no sound. There's a handwritten note in the service manual for that which states it's a faulty IC401 which is the Sony CXD1167Q. Another note also mentions distorted CD Audio but ok PCM as pointing to this issue. That's similar to earlier behavior I saw as I could still play some games, but once it tried to play CD audio or an FMV it would be distorted/start skipping and would then crash.

    So I think it's officially dead short of swapping out that IC.
    Last edited by TrekkiesUnite118; 07-05-2019 at 03:56 AM.

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