Excellent. Thank you, man!
For those wanting a direct link. Shipping to Australia seems steep... but I can order multiple for cheap.
To be most clear (and knowing they probably can), they can do 50Hz, right?
Excellent. Thank you, man!
For those wanting a direct link. Shipping to Australia seems steep... but I can order multiple for cheap.
To be most clear (and knowing they probably can), they can do 50Hz, right?
Hi Swampfox I was messing around with this over the last few days.
I Figured out that due to the way the chip is built, pin 2 combines sync with pin 3 not pin 20.
Thats why you were getting good sync with +5v and nothing with ground.
I tried pin 16 to pin 3 and i got ok image, it was dark.
then i added the 1uf cap and it was super bright, turning it down with a pot made it better but the image was still odd.
I think It might have been something i messed up on..
So i'm not sure if it might be something to try out or I am just way out in left field.
They definetly can do 50Hz and other odd refresh rates.
Oddly enough, that's the way I play PAL games. I happen to have a TV that can do S-Video and component in both NTSC and PAL. S-Video tends to crap out (Sub-carrier related issues), but this component box does wonders on PAL.
Not sure if anyone can help me. Im using helder's v5.0 version off oshpark and everytime i hook sync up to the board i lose all video. Ive tried sync from the sync in pin, sync from composite video and sync from the sync pin on the multi-out,
If i disconnect the sync composite works, when i attach sync all video signals die but game still continues (sound still works)
If i connect csync directly to the Y jack i also lose signal out of composite. The only thing that doesnt make me lose signal is sync on luma directly to Y but as expected i lose green.
I removed the 680 ohm resistor and just ran sync straight to Y, i now get a picture. On my projector it seems fine but on my plasma its way too bright. I still lose composite signal with sync hooked up to the circuit though. Perhaps I should try a pot between sync and Y? Still at a loss on why im losing composite signal though.
Hello everyone, new to the forum but I came aboard because of this thread. I want to thank Ace for designing the converter and Helder for the PCB, I've successfully used it on a Neo Geo MVS but it didn't work right out of the box, here's what happened and what I did:
At first I had this weird image waviness on my CRT, and on my LCD TV image would drop out 1-2 seconds every minute more or less. So I applied the fix done by ncorvasce92 (link), basically took the sync output from the LM1881 directly to Y, that helped a lot, waviness on the CRT TV was greatly reduced but still not 100% gone (now it looked like it was flickering/moving very slightly) but LCD TV was now looking great without dropouts.
To finally fix the issue I read somewhere (I think it was in another forum) about adding a low pass filter on the sync line as shown in the LM1881 documentation, in the doc they build it with a 620ohm resistor and 510pf capacitor, I could not source those locally so I used a 33 ohm resistor & 0.01uf cap to get a close enough value, and with this finally all issues were gone.
I'm working on designing a PCB that includes the low-pass filter & the sync on Y directly, never designed a PCB before so it's taking me a while, not sure if anybody else would find it useful but if I complete it I'll share it here![]()
So the CSync from Pin1 of LM1881 should be injected directly to Y output or through a resistor?
From what I understand the LM1881 output TTL 5v output that needs to be attenuated to consumer standard.
Sega Genesis Model1 VA6, Model2 VA4|VA3, Mega Everdrive X5
Is this thread dead of what?
I've attached a schematic with a THS7374 amp after the BA7230LS which Syboxez posted on Discord but I have no idea if it is from Ace.
Ace recommended on discord when I asked "Would you suggest injecting the sync from LM1881 directly to Y through a resistor?".
I wanted to add that there are a lot of schematics on this thread, and newcomers like me still don't know what the correct one to use.If by that, you mean a resistive adder (resistor on luminance and composite sync from the LM1881), then yes, though I would do this prior to any 75ohm series resistor + 220uF series capacitor to the display.
Check with a scope to ensure you get 1Vpp with 0.7Vpp for the luminance signal and 0.3Vpp for composite sync after 75ohm termination and you should be good to go.
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Sega Genesis Model1 VA6, Model2 VA4|VA3, Mega Everdrive X5
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