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Thread: Ask general Genesis/MD/Sega CD/32X questions here (for new members)

  1. #2101
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingNameless One infidelity's Avatar
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    Anyone?

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    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingNameless One pyroesp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by infidelity View Post
    As a test, with my Sega CD running, I would like to disable the RESET button on my Genesis, from resetting the Sega CD back to its title screen & ejecting the tray.

    I've been looking at the expansion port diagrams online of the model 1 Genesis, to see which pin handles the RESET function, but I don't know abbreviations for that system, the only thing I see is DISK, so idk if that's where the connection is when you press the RESET button?

    The point for all of this, is that I have a hard reset function via button combination with my 6 button controller, which takes me back to the Mega Everdrive menu, I can exit back from both Gen/32x, but not within the Sega CD. I want to be able to get back to my menu from within the Sega CD, but I need to disable the RESET function.*

    If anyone knows which trace to sever, please let me know, thanks!

    Edit - Or, is there a way to change the Sega CD, from checking if a cartridge is connected or not, to always present? Cause from the Everdrive I'm able to select any CD bios file to start the system, so I don't need the Sega CD looking to get permission.*

    Please help! Thanks!
    Looking at the schematics of the Sega CD, the /DISK signal is just tied to GND on the Sega CD side, probably to indicate to the Genesis that the Sega CD is plugged in, so that can't be the reset.
    Maybe it's FRES on A25 ? It's coming from the 315-5309 chip, I/O chip ? (looking at this schematic : https://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetc...stom_chips.png)
    On the Genesis 2 schematics from the manuals I have found here, the FRES is coming from the custom chip IC6.
    Last edited by pyroesp; 08-20-2018 at 03:52 PM.

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    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingNameless One pyroesp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaos Fusion View Post
    ...

    Also, I just got a hold of a PAL copy of Blue Stinger and I learnt my region Free Jp Dreamcast either runs the game at 60hz in VGA which makes the cutscenes play too fast and composite video which displays the usual black and white flickering image. For a Japanese Dreamcast, would a official Scart RGB cable allow me to play the game in 50hz with colour or will it simply display at 60hz like VGA?

    Edit: Actually, just learnt of the Toro box which looks like a nice piece off equipment. Anyone tested to see if it displays/runs PAL games correctly on NTSC hardware?
    I'm pretty sure the frequency will still be 60Hz. The cable doesn't change that. You probably need a 50/60Hz mod, if that is possible on a dreamcast.
    Last edited by pyroesp; 08-20-2018 at 07:09 PM.

  4. #2104
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingNameless One pyroesp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by superfry63 View Post
    Hey everyone - another random head scratcher for ya.

    I picked up an "as is" 32x with no cords etc. I hooked it up and it plays genesis games but not 32x. (all cords/games tested and working on 2 other systems, OEM power etc)

    Normally this is 99% the ribbon cables. Ive cleaned and re-seated them, but just get a black screen on the 32x games.

    Everything else looks super clean and just like my other working 32x. (all the wires from the mother.daughter board go to the same spots, no blown caps etc)

    Any idea what I could check next?

    Thanks,
    Measure voltage just to be sure it's getting power from the genesis.
    You could swap the ribbon cables with the working 32x you have to see if there's a break in one of those, or just do a continuity test on them with a multimeter.

  5. #2105
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingNameless One pyroesp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by superfry63 View Post
    I have a Sega Saturn headscratcher, if anyone has any thoughts:

    I purchased a model 1 MK80000 black/NTSC oval buttons a while ago, it worked perfectly but when opening it up I discovered that it was one of the revisions with the separate controller boards and that the ribbon cable was in rough shape. When trying to remove the ribbon cable, the pins actually came out of the ribbon cable port/connection.. The connector and cable were destroyed.

    However, I was able to order in another ribbon cable and a PAL/JAP controller board which was completely different, so i desoldered the connector/port for the ribbon cable, and put it on my controller board. Amazingly, I didn't screw anything up and the controllers both work, as do the power and access lights.

    When I hooked everything back up, the access light is constantly blinking red, and the CD spindle will not spin up, nor will the laser assembly move at all. (including the little lens going up and down a bit)

    The board is able to tell when the CD lid is open or closed, the little cubes are both green on the system menu. I did reseat the other ribbon cable going from the CD board to the main motherboard and it doesn't look damaged.

    If I leave that ribbon cable unhooked, the access light stops flashing which leads me to believe that the cable is somewhat working at least.

    I'm thinking maybe the laser died, since it will not move into position or etc. Spindle could be dead as well, but I doubt it would start spinning until the laser did it's thing.

    I will also note that when the lid it closed and a CD is in it, it will say "checking disc" after a while it just dissapears, no failure message. I've also tried cleaning the lens with Rubbing alcohol and a q-tip, as well as greasing the gears a bit.

    Time for a new laser or? lol

    Thanks everyone - have helped me out with alot of issues since I joined up!
    You might not have soldered the connector correctly, or there's a difference between the PAL and the NTSC ribbon cable.
    Try a continuity test from one end of the connector to the other. Check for shorts between pins too.
    The CD drive might not be connected correctly and isn't receiving the command to read the disk, even though the screen says so.

    You might want to check the schematics, if there are any available, just to see if shorting pins or incorrectly connecting pins might damage the cd drive.

    EDIT:
    You might want to check if the CD drive has power too.
    Last edited by pyroesp; 08-21-2018 at 08:09 AM.

  6. #2106
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingNameless One pyroesp's Avatar
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    Seeing as I need 50 posts before I can make my own thread, I'll just ask here.

    I've recently repaired a Sega Mega-CD 2, that originally didn't want to boot. The thing was covered in flux, just gross.

    I burned Sonic CD to a CD-R, just to test the system.

    When playing Sonic CD, I wait on the start menu so the intro movie can start playing.
    This intro doesnít load all the time, and when that happens the CD drive makes noises like itís trying to read or find the correct spot on the CD (?) but then just stops spinning the disk.

    I can get it to load by opening and closing the port of the CD drive. That resets/homes the laser head and then the CD drive starts spinning and reading the disk again.

    Iíve tried another game and this one doesnít want to load the levels unless I open and close the CD port.

    Anyone knows why this happens and/or knows how to fix this ?

    I've written about this repair on my github page for those who want to have a laugh at my stupidity :
    Part 1: https://pyroesp.github.io/electronic...mega-cd-2.html
    Part 2: https://pyroesp.github.io/electronic...-2-part-2.html

  7. #2107
    urusei yatsura Master of Shinobi lumclaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pyroesp View Post
    I'm pretty sure the frequency will still be 60Hz. The cable doesn't change that. You probably need a 50/60Hz mod, if that is possible on a dreamcast.
    I think VGA automatically uses 60hz, skipping the 50/60hz prompt if a game has it.
    Most likely the NTSC dreamcast composite/s-video encoder doesn't support PAL, and will display messed up colors in 50hz. (other consoles like gamecube have similar issues)

    But consider this speculation. I don't own PAL dreamcast games.

  8. #2108
    Master of Shinobi
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    Quote Originally Posted by lumclaw View Post
    I think VGA automatically uses 60hz, skipping the 50/60hz prompt if a game has it.
    Most likely the NTSC dreamcast composite/s-video encoder doesn't support PAL, and will display messed up colors in 50hz. (other consoles like gamecube have similar issues)

    But consider this speculation. I don't own PAL dreamcast games.
    I agree on both counts. If the game supports VGA it will output at 60Hz, even if it's a PAL game. The box doesn't claim VGA compatibility though, so that may be why there's an issue.

    A SCART cable might work, but AFAIK the PAL version of that game is 50Hz only, so it's possible it will misbehave on a Japanese console.

  9. #2109
    urusei yatsura Master of Shinobi lumclaw's Avatar
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    SCART is a good idea. A few games can't use VGA properly at all.

    I don't know what other PAL differences the game has. NTSC copies are affordable enough, if necessary.

  10. #2110
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training xoddf2's Avatar
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    In early 2017, I obtained a VA6 model 1 and an MK-1602 AC adapter. It did not work. Even when connected to an outlet for a while, it does not even get warm.

    Several months later, I obtained a 1602-1 AC adapter. This one does get warm when connected for a while, but it does not work either.

    What could be wrong with them?

  11. #2111
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingNameless One pyroesp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xoddf2 View Post
    In early 2017, I obtained a VA6 model 1 and an MK-1602 AC adapter. It did not work. Even when connected to an outlet for a while, it does not even get warm.

    Several months later, I obtained a 1602-1 AC adapter. This one does get warm when connected for a while, but it does not work either.

    What could be wrong with them?
    Why do you assume it's the AC adapters that are faulty? Have you tried measuring the output of both power supplies with a voltmeter ?
    The fact that one is getting warm means that it's doing something, might not be outputting a voltage, but it's doing something.

    If the AC adapters work then my suggestion would be to test both 78XX voltage regulators out of circuit.
    Test for shorts to ground while the voltage regs aren't on the motherboard. If you have a short, find it and fix it.
    If both voltage regs work, then place them back and apply power. Measure voltage from the jack input to the input of the 78XX. If it stops halfway through, then you have an issue with one of the component.

    Repairing an AC adapter isn't really worth it IMO. The thing is ultrasonically welded shut.

  12. #2112
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training xoddf2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pyroesp View Post
    Why do you assume it's the AC adapters that are faulty? Have you tried measuring the output of both power supplies with a voltmeter ?
    I tried them with an NES, and they didn't work there either.

    (No, I did not try the opposite, for obvious reasons.)

  13. #2113
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingNameless One pyroesp's Avatar
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    If you still want to open them up, there's probably only a transformer, a half or full bridge rectifier and a smoothing cap in there.
    The problem is the ultrasonic welding.
    It's not something you can just pop open, at least that's what I've seen so far. I don't own one of those you mentioned, so who knows.

    The NES adapter is 9VAC right?


    Do you know if the VA6 model you have works? Have you tried with a different ac adapter?

  14. #2114
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-Training xoddf2's Avatar
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    Yes, the NES-002 wall wart outputs AC 9V 1.2A. I didn't want to fry the MD1 with it.

    Those official Sega MK-1602 and 1602-1 wall warts were the only 2 I could find around here compatible with it, therefore I don't know if it works.

  15. #2115
    A Light In The Building. Master of Shinobi
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    Quote Originally Posted by pyroesp View Post
    The problem is the ultrasonic welding.
    It's not something you can just pop open, at least that's what I've seen so far. I don't own one of those you mentioned, so who knows.
    Every MK-1602 series adapter I've owned was held together with safety screws. Very serviceable.

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