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Thread: Ask general Genesis/MD/Sega CD/32X questions here (for new members)

  1. #2146
    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingNameless One pyroesp's Avatar
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    I don't think changing your voltage reg would cause something like that. My guess is your power supply is under too much load.
    Anything getting hot in there when powering it up?

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    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingSports Talker Madness Hero's Avatar
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    The vregs got a lil warm after leaving it on for a few minutes to check for heat but everything else seems fine temp wise. I'm kinda wondering about the power source myself. It's a really cheap unit, the wall block is so light it almost feels empty. iirc the specs on the plug say it outputs 9v at 300ma, would that amperage be too low causing the drop out. On an unrelated note I just picked up a va0 Genesis 2 to test my model 1 CD with, but I'm afraid to hook the CD up with my sketchy power source. I'm hoping I can find one soon locally.
    Last edited by Madness Hero; 07-01-2019 at 03:52 PM.
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    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingNameless One pyroesp's Avatar
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    Looking at this https://en.retrogamesupply.com/produ...rive-genesis-1 , the original power supply is 9 to 10V and capable of delivering 1.2A.
    Your power supply is not good enough.

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    In the words of Hubert Farnsworth "Good news everyone", VA 6 and VA 2 are working!!!
    I made a new power supply from a Nintendo Wii power brick and both systems turn on and run great. However, VA 6 still has a minor issue... the led is still fading out. It will come on as soon as I turn on the system but it quickly fades out and if I switch off the system and flip it back on it stays off, but if I leave it off for a few minutes it comes back on when powered up, but again will fade out. I checked continuity between the legs but they aren't shorted. No idea what to check next.

    Edited: I found the issue while probing voltage (after a long session of probing for shorts >.<) And quickly found that the 120 ohm smd resistor right in line behind the led has failed. Not sure that anyone else has had this issue but I hope if they do this can be of assistance. Wasn't expecting to find that failed. Anyway a big thanks to pyroesp and Raijin Z for their support.
    Last edited by Madness Hero; 07-05-2019 at 05:39 AM.
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    Hello all! Bought a Nomad ages ago and I've decided to replace the LCD with a new one that can handle an RGB signal (using NX Labs LCDDRV controller board). I was curious if anyone could tell me if there would be any difference between drawing the video signal directly from the Nomad's CXA1645 encoder vs. getting it from the A/V out? I've seen it done both ways and I'm not sure if it makes any difference, so I figured I'd ask here before I start soldering away. Thanks!

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    Hedgehog-in-Training Hedgehog-in-TrainingSports Talker Madness Hero's Avatar
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    Default Wish I had an answer for you.

    Gonna be honest I've never touched a nomad period. But logic tells me if there are any components (like a resistor or capacitor for instance) in line after the cxa there may be a difference in where u hook up depending on the output voltage and the voltage required for ur display. Aside from that I would assume it's a preference of ease of wiring, ease of reassembly, and perhaps board noise. I'm sorry I can't be of better assistance and I hope this helps u in some capacity. Just wanted to let you know ur not alone on this forum.
    "Keep your friends close but get your enemies toaster."

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    Someone on this forum who did the mod actually PM'd not too long ago!: apparently the signal is a bit stronger if pulled from the A/V connector pins. Not sure if it's related to your suggestion, my knowledge of electricity is unfortunately a bit weak. But thank you for the heads-up!

    Now all I wanna do is see if I can preserve the function of the stock brightness wheel, but if I'm not mistaken, it controls the stock backlight assembly directly, so rewiring it to a new board might also be beyond my know-how.

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    I'm not an expert by any means nor do I have any knowledge of LCDs but if the backlight is powered separately I would assume that would be fairly simple to add that roller in line on the positive voltage between where you're pulling power from and the LCDs back light wiring, but that's purely speculation. I'm sure somebody on this forum could tell you whether or not it's doable cuz a lot of retro buffs like to keep full functionality. Good luck in your quest buddy my next mission is to get my Sega CD model one running. May the spirit of the Segata Sanshiro guide us lol.
    Last edited by Madness Hero; 07-12-2019 at 03:41 PM.
    "Keep your friends close but get your enemies toaster."

  9. #2154
    The Curly Bard Wildside Expert CurlyPaul's Avatar
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    I've got an MD PAL VA1.8 here that's only outputting white noise on the audio channel. I can solder, but not good at diagnosing, could anyone point me in the right direction please?

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    U could try checking volatge at ur caps to see if any have failed
    "Keep your friends close but get your enemies toaster."

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    Hi everyone. Sometime ago I bought a Mega Drive 1 and didn't know much about it. After trying to identify what model it is I realized it's actually an Asian Mega Drive, that has been converted from a Japanese one. I have no idea how it ended up here in Finland, maybe some company was importing them or something.

    These seem like quite common based on doing some research and there are guides on how to revert them back to their original Japanese spec. However, I have a problem with mine: the modification that was done to it is different to the ones I've seen online. It seems that instead of cutting a trace the modders have actually desoldered one SMD capacitor. I have no clue what component should be in it's place. If anyone knows what I should do with that, I would appreciate it. See picture for the missing component: https://i.imgur.com/5WsTywo.jpg

    Also, in the picture, there's an external oscillator which I should remove, right? Judging by the traces, the missing capacitor(?) prevents the orginal oscillator from getting to the Sony chip, and the soldered on oscillator does the work.

    The jumper area has a cut trace and some soldering done to it, as seen here: https://i.imgur.com/LnN4nlL.jpg Should I remove that solder, and join the ones where the trace is cut?
    Also, should this resistor be on the video out port? https://i.imgur.com/iNZFZWC.jpg

    Thanks in advance to anyone who is able to help. I'm looking forward to getting this Mega Drive up and running.

  12. #2157
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    Question

    Hi all. I've just acquired my first SegaCD (CD model 2, using with a Genesis model 2 VA3) and had a technical question. When playing CD games, the audio seems to pass through to the Genesis' original AV port fine, so what's the point of the CD unit having its own red/white RCA audio out? Is the audio from the CD base higher quality than from the passthrough? Thanks for your help!

  13. #2158
    Nonconformist Hedgehog-in-TrainingWCPO Agent EyeDeeNo76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybob884 View Post
    Hi all. I've just acquired my first SegaCD (CD model 2, using with a Genesis model 2 VA3) and had a technical question. When playing CD games, the audio seems to pass through to the Genesis' original AV port fine, so what's the point of the CD unit having its own red/white RCA audio out? Is the audio from the CD base higher quality than from the passthrough? Thanks for your help!
    The red and white RCA jacks are line level intended for a device that has a volume control such as a boombox, audio receiver or yes a TV.

    Edit: Yeah a Genesis model 2 has stereo audio and by adding additional jacks to the Sega CD base provided flexibility like them playing an audio compact disc you can run it to audio receiver. Also not many people back in the day would listen to their TV from a audio receiver.
    Last edited by EyeDeeNo76; 11-06-2019 at 11:13 PM.

  14. #2159
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    Quote Originally Posted by EyeDeeNo76 View Post
    The red and white RCA jacks are line level intended for a device that has a volume control such as a boombox, audio receiver or yes a TV.

    Edit: Yeah a Genesis model 2 has stereo audio and by adding additional jacks to the Sega CD base provided flexibility like them playing an audio compact disc you can run it to audio receiver. Also not many people back in the day would listen to their TV from a audio receiver.
    Gotcha, thanks for the quick reply. So if you use a composite cable out from the Genesis AV, is the stereo RCA from there also line-level?

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    Nonconformist Hedgehog-in-TrainingWCPO Agent EyeDeeNo76's Avatar
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    Boy oh boy the forum was super slow yesterday on my end so I give up trying to respond.

    Quote Originally Posted by billybob884 View Post
    Gotcha, thanks for the quick reply. So if you use a composite cable out from the Genesis AV, is the stereo RCA from there also line-level?
    Yes the model 2's red and white plugs of the audio & video cable are line level.

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